Hobbiton <3

To say we have been looking forward to this trip for a long time would be an understatement. We both couldn’t wait to go to Hobbiton and see the Shire. We had decided to book our Hobbiton trip as part of the Middle Earth Trilogy package, which included: Hobbiton, Waitomo and Raikari Caves and Te Pui (cultural experience). We booked these tours so that we were doing one each day for three days. We added up the savings and we would save a large amount by doing them through a package deal rather than individually so were pretty happy.

We left our accommodation in Coromandel early as we had a 2 hour drive to the Matamata area where the Hobbiton set is based. As we approached the area, with its sweeping hills and lush green countryside, we new we were close. You honestly felt like you were in the middle of the Shire before you even made it to the set. We parked up and checked in as a bus would be taking us the final distance into the set. We learnt that Peter Jackson (the director of the LoTR and the Hobbit trilogies) had flown over the area in a Helicopter searching for the perfect sight for Hobbiton and as soon as he saw this sight, he knew that this was it. The land belonged, and still does, to the Alexander family. The land had been used as farm land and as we drove towards the set we enjoyed seeing all of the sheep roaming around on the beautiful hillsides.

The set was built temporarily for the LoTR trilogy, removed after filming finished and then rebuilt permanently for the Hobbit trilogy. It has been accessible to tour since then. We watched a video on the bus as we pulled up to the site and you could tell that everyone on the bus was getting pretty excited.

I won’t go into too much detail about all of the little filming secrets they told us about, or what every single hobbit hole looked like, as I don’t want to ruin it for anyone who will visit in the future. However, I will tell you that there are 43 hobbit holes, 4 more than were built for the LoTR trilogy as Peter Jackson wanted to be able to get more sweeping panoramic shots during the filming of the Hobbit. We got to walk around most of them, which are unfortunately only facades. All of the internal shots were filmed in studios either down in Wellington or elsewhere in the world. Some of the highlights were seeing Bag End, Sam’s house, the Party tree and the Green Dragon pub. I’ll put a selection of photos below for you to see.

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The weather was glorious, the air of excitement was all around us and it was a really lovely tour. We ended the tour with a drink in the Green Dragon. We both had tasty cider and couldn’t believe that our 2 hours were over already. The one downside to the tour was that is was VERY busy. When you wanted to get photos back to Hobbiton there were queues of people in the shots and you were constantly getting moved along to keep up with your tour group. As it is designed for Hobbits, the paths are narrow and taking photos was pretty difficult. But, we did have an AMAZING time.

We arrived back at the carpark wanting to go around again, just because 2 hours wasn’t enough time. We ate some sandwiches in Maverick and then moved on towards a town called Cambridge. The wifi situation has been pretty rubbish so far. Never having good enough wifi to upload photos, write blogs or do research, so we went to a local Mcdonalds and had a drink to use their wifi. Their wifi was BAD!! We hardly got anything done. The rest of the day was a work day. Laundry needed doing and food shopping needed buying, but we ended the day by watching the Fellowship of the Ring. I mean, what else would we have watched that night? 🙂

24 hours in Coromandel

We left our random accommodation in Orere Point in the early morning to head over to Coromandel Peninsula. The two activities we were heading over to do are both quite touristy, but we’ve been looking forward to them both since seeing all the pictures.

We had about a 2 hour drive on some of the windiest rounds I’ve ever driven on before we got to our campsite for the night. We weren’t going to risk not having checked in again so we headed straight to our campsite, checked in and then headed off to Cathedral Cove.

If you’ve ever seen pictures of the Coromandel region, I would guess that you’ve seen pictures of Cathedral Cove. You can only reach the cove by walking (around 40 minutes), kayaking or by boat. We decided we didn’t want to get the passenger ferry as most of the fun of getting somewhere beautiful like this is the effort it takes to get there. There were so breathtaking views along the walk and some even better views once we made it to the cove.

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As we walked back up towards the car we stopped at Stingray Bay. It would appear that most people skip over this beautiful cove and head straight to Cathedral Cove, so we had it to ourselves for most of the time we were there.

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We got back in Maverick and headed into Hahei to get some food and to have a look at the beach there. We enjoyed a takeaway pizza, some icecreams and another play on a tree swing.

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(look how happy I am).

It was about time to head over to Hot Water Beach. Hot Water Beach is a naturally geothermal beach where you can utilise the hot water that comes up from the ground to build your own hot tub. We had heard that it was a good idea to get to the beach about 2 hours before low tide as the thermal water comes up around 2 hours before and after low tide. We hired a spade, got into our swimmers and headed down to the beach. Despite being 2 hours early, the beach was PACKED!! We couldn’t believe it. We spotted another British couple and decided to join forces with them in digging our hole. The boys took the lead and dug right next to this super impressive pool that a local had made. However, our pool wasn’t getting a lot of hot water coming up into it, so it was slightly cooler than lukewarm. Simon decided we needed to move so we moved closer to the middle of the thermal activity where it was actually TOO hot. Simon was jumping around on the sand trying to find a spot. We decided we could create a hot water channel down to the cooler pool and eventually it would be a perfect temperature. It was. We sat in the pool for about an hour and a half enjoying the scenery and chatting to the British couple, then an American couple and then some guys from Switzerland. We were super jealous as some of the other pools had beers and we really started to crave a beer. Right towards the end of our time we both ran into the sea for a cold plunge and then back to our hot pool. The pool was about the temperature of a bath just after you’ve run it. Perfect!! For me, a bath lover, it was a great way to end a lovely day.

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We went back to our campsite, where the other British couple were staying too, had a couple of rum and cokes and chatted away. A really lovely evening and day!!!

 

 

 

Road trip 1 – Northlands Part 2

We got up relatively early the next day and got ready. We were being picked up at 7:30am by the Dune Rider, a 4WD coach that was going to take us up to Cape Reinga and along 90 mile beach with a lot of other interesting stops along the way.

Our first stop was at Mangonui where we were able to pick up a coffee. I desperately needed a coffee as I had taken a motion sickness tablet for the bus and couldn’t stop falling asleep. Unfortunately, I’ve now run out of my trusty British tablets so have had to try some others, which are making me pretty drowsy. Mangonui is a really pretty town right on the coast. We would be returning here later for fish and chips.

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We kept traveling North and ended up at an old Gumdiggers park. Kauri trees are some of the largest trees in the world, growing up to 50m tall, with trunk girths of up to 16m and living for over 2000 years. Kauri gum is the fossilised resin or sap of the Kauri tree. At the Gumdiggers park we saw the remains of the work that used to happen here (shelters, tools and the holes where they have excavated the Kauri gum). We also saw a huge and very ancient Kauri tree which was believed to have been blown over in bad weather and then preserved in a swamp.

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We got back in the coach and headed up to our lunch stop. We had a pretty basic lunch at a cafe on the way (meat and rice salad) and then headed up to Cape Reinga. At Cape Reinga 2 oceans collide, the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean. It was so cool to see the different currents and waves hitting each other creating all of these beautiful patterns on the surface of the water. At the northernmost tip of the cape there is a pohutukawa tree, believed to be around 800 years old. Cape Reinga is a very sacred place to the Maori people as they believe that the spirits of their deceased leap from this tree into the ocean to return to their ancestral homeland of Hawaiki. As we approached the Cape, our bus driver started to chant in Maori. He told us that he had lost a few family members recently and this place is the most appropriate to say goodbye. Cape Reinga isn’t quite the northern most point of New Zealand, but North Cape (which is) is inaccessible as it’s a scientific reserve, so it’s as far North as you can go. We walked around the lighthouse and went up to a vantage point to get some good views back across the Cape. The whole area had a really magical and sacred feel to it. Beautiful.

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We got back in the bus and started our journey back south. Our first stop was to Te Paki Sand Dunes where we were going to spend some time sandboarding. Neither of us had sandboarded before so we were pretty excited to have a good. I couldn’t believe how steep the dune was that we were going to be riding down, but we both had a good and really enjoyed it. Simon even moved up to the higher dune, but I didn’t want to as you would have to go through water at the end and I was already pretty cold. I stuck with my other dune. We only got videos of this, but I will try and put some videos onto facebook soon.

After leaving the Te Paki Sand Dunes we drove onto 90 mile beach. 90 mile beach was named by Captain James Cook (this name keeps cropping up doesn’t it) on his circumnavigation of New Zealand in 1769. He had a pretty useless device for measuring and measured the distance of the beach in nautical miles, coming to the number 90. It has been since measured at 55 miles, so quite far off the original distance, but the name has stuck. We drove along the beach for about an hour, only getting stuck by the tide once. The driver did some clever timing and we got through no problem. The whole area is really just so beautiful and it reminded us of our time on K’Gari in Australia, which is never going to be a bad memory.

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We had to drop off some people at a shop that specialised in Kauri products. We were told to go straight to the middle of the store as there is a very impressive staircase carved our of one piece of Kauri wood. This piece being 50 tonnes in since. The staircase was stunning and it felt like an honour to be able to walk up the stairs. The original piece that was discovered was actually 110 tonnes, but that was used to make smaller products.

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Our last stop of the day was fish and chips in Mangonui. We both enjoyed the Hoki and chips as here in New Zealand they have so many quotas and laws in place to product their marine life that I didn’t feel bad at all eating it and it was super tasty!! Our whole day had been amazing and completely worth what we had paid for the whole trip. To celebrate such a good day, we drove into town, bought some icecreams from the supermarket and sat in the car over looking Paihia and the Bay of Islands.

The next day we were starting the long drive back down Northlands, passed Auckland and over to Coromandel where we would be spending 24 hours. Unfortunately, we stopped too many times to look at things and explore that we didn’t travel as far as we wanted to during the day. We’ve learnt that most holiday parks, where we’ve been parking the car, need you to check in by 8pm and by 7pm we were hardly past Auckland. We quickly readjusted our plan as we had nothing booked and went and stayed in Orere for a night.

Here are some of the spots we enjoyed on our drive through Northlands:

Paihia beachfront

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Kawakawa to look at the railway and the famous toilets

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Whangarei falls

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A.H Reed Kauri Park

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Langs Beach

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Off to Coromandel next to enjoy Cathedral Cove and Hot Water Beach. Wooo!!!

Road trip 1 – Northlands Part 1

On the day we collected Maverick, our spaceship, it was very grey, cold and wet. Anyone who knows me knows I’m not the best when it comes to camping. I get cold in Egypt, so how will I ever manage living out of a car? Anyway, despite my little niggly worries, we were both excited. We have loved the times when we’ve had our own transportation and now we were going to have a car for 6 weeks!!!! YAY!!

The company paid for us to get a taxi to collect Maverick (he will be referred to his name from now on), we had a briefing on how everything worked and then we were free to go. So, what is a spaceship? A spaceship is a type of camper car. So what is a camper car? It is a long car that has been modified in the back so that you have a double mattress, fridge, camping stoves and storage compartments. We went crazy and also rented a power cable so we could charge our electrical items at powered campsites and a summer pack (chairs, table, cooler box and solar shower). Unfortunately they had run out of tables so we got refunded the cost of the table and will be buying our own as soon as possible. All in all, we were pretty impressed with the size of Maverick when we collected him and so far he’s been a very smooth and reliable ride!

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As we left Auckland we decided to go up to Mount Eden to get some views back to Auckland. Auckland is a city surrounded by extinct volcanoes and Mount Eden is one of them. However, when we arrived at the carpark, the weather turned even worse for us. The spectacular views we were promised didn’t really happen and we were soaking wet by the time we made it back to the car. My worst camping fears were coming true… everything being damp and gross. We had planned to go to a local beach called Piha for lunch, but decided the weather was too bad so we started our journey up towards Paihia in the North. We would be using Paihia as a base for the next 3 days so that we could explore the Bay of Islands and Cape Regina.

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Not long after we left Auckland we saw a Pac n’ Save. I’d heard that these were the Aldi’s of New Zealand so we went shopping and stocked the camper with nearly a weeks worth of food!! Bargain! When putting all of the food back into the camper somehow I dropped the keys down the side of the fridge, an area not easily accessible. Simon had to go and by a screwdriver so we could get the keys back and get on the road again. Whoops! Thank you Simon. You were a hero!!!

We stopped in the next town, which was called Orewa and had some lunch. We whipped out the camping stove, made a cuppa and enjoyed our sandwiches whilst looking out over the beach. Maybe this camping thing won’t be so bad? I think the best of the weather was coming to an end now and we decided to just plow on with our 250km. The maximum speed limit in New Zealand is 100km so it’s not too fast to travel anywhere really, but we made it to our campsite by about 6.30pm. The whole drive was beautiful, at times reminding us of Norway and at other times reminding us of Wales and Scotland. The North Island is the less ‘pretty’ island apparently. Jeez, we will definitely be spoilt by the end.

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Once we got to our campsite we had the fun of trying to put up an awning and turning the back area into a bedroom. We managed quite successfully and used the camp kitchen to make some dinner. 4 guys who were working over here from India gave us some left over sausages that they had BBQ’d and invited us to join them for a chat. They were very lovely people and told us that their culture was to share everything. They kept offering lamb steaks, beer and rum. We offered them some coca cola and cookies. I have to admit, at first I was skeptical as it’s not common to do that in British culture, but they genuinely were being nice and we had a lovely chat with them about New Zealand, India and Britain. We headed off to bed as we had quite an early start for our first tour of NZ the next day.

We woke up nice and early to head to the for the wharf for our ferry tour. We were going to be visiting the Bay of Islands and the Hole in the Rock, with the hope that we may see some marine mammals on the way. We had heard that the swells yesterday were up to 1.5m and the guests didn’t have a fun trip, not even making it to see the Hole in the Rock. I took some seasickness tablets and hoped! Before the boat departed we had a little bit of time to walk around Paihia, which is a very pretty little coastal town. I learnt that the name comes from someone saying the town was ‘Fine here’. Maori for fine is Pai, so the town is now Paihia (pronounced Pai here).

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Once on the boat we got chatting to a couple of groups of Brits, one who has lived in NZ for 40 years and worked for a while with the NZ Royal Navy and another guy who also served in the Royal Navy. Lets just say there was a lot of Navy chat for a while. We picked up some more people from Russell (more on that place later) and then set off through the islands. The Bay of Islands is a subtropical micro-region made up of 144 islands. The islands are absolutely stunning. Our skipper provided interesting commentary throughout the trip telling us that only 4 of the islands were inhabited, 2 of those are fully privately owned and you can only camp on one of the islands.

We were very lucky because quite early on we saw a pod of Bottlenose dolphins following our boat and jumping out of the water showing off. We saw another pod later on, but they were travelling at a much quicker speed when we were out in open ocean on our way to the Hole in the Rock. Dolphins and other marine mammals are usually spotted about 80% of the time on these trips, but are never guaranteed. It was breathtaking seeing them jump out of the water and playing around.

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We kept heading through the beautiful islands and eventually made our way up to the Hole in the Rock. This island is the most pristine in all of the Bay of Islands with no sign of any introduced species. The 60 foot hole at sea level was created over centuries by wind and waves. Unfortunately we were unable to go through the hole in the rock due to the swells on the North side, but luckily we made it up there to see it. The waves were nothing like the day before, but the skipper kept saying it was going to get rough and windy, he kept going on about seaspray. Fortunately i think he was just over exaggerating because I didn’t get sick at all.

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On the way back from the Hole in the Rock we stopped for lunch at the largest island in the bay, Urupukapuka at Otehei Bay. Lunch was soup, bread, a wrap and a brownie. Pretty tasty stuff and much needed after our exciting morning. We had a walk around the island after lunch and went up to the top of a hill for a panoramic view. The view was stunning. The water was crystal clear, beautiful sandy beaches and all of these interesting island formations. I was finding it hard to believe we were in New Zealand it looked so tropical.

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We made sailed back to Russell and this time we got off there. As part of our tour you get a ferry passenger ferry ticket from Russell to Paihia, so we decided to spend and hour or so there looking around. Russell used to be known as the ‘hell hole’ of the Pacific. It was the first permanent European Settlement in New Zealand and because of its links to whaling, prostitution and a lack of law enforcement. It’s pretty nice now and I don’t think anyone would call it a hell hole anymore.

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We walked along the front and then went and visited the oldest church in New Zealand – Christ Church. There was an interesting gravestone which belongs to the chief of the Maori people in Northlands at the time the treaty was signed with Britain. You could see gun shot holes and bullets in the side of the church from a siege. I’m not really sure what the siege was about though.

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To end our time in Russell we went to a cafe and had a smoothie and a milkshake before taking the ferry back over to Paihia. We decided we didn’t want to go back to the campsite just yet, so went to see Hurura waterfalls just outside of Paihia. We have seen quite a lot of waterfalls recently and it always amazes me how each one is so different. This one was no different with the falls being pretty powerful initially and then all of a sudden calm in the river below.

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We settled in for the night as we had an early start the next day on our second excursion whilst up in Northlands.

I’m going to leave this blog here because the wifi at this McDonalds is so bad and I’m getting a headache from moaning at it so much! I will aim to do the next day as soon as possible.

Our first taste of New Zealand – Auckland

Our time in Australia had come to an end and it was time to head to New Zealand. We had been getting pretty excited in the last few weeks about New Zealand. Maybe because we would have a car, maybe because we were doing a lot of the same activities in Australia (coastal walks, lighthouses, botanical gardens etc.) or maybe because Australia was sapping money from us. From the blogs I’m sure you can see that we aren’t be extravagant. We aren’t eating out hardly at all. We definitely aren’t doing all the tours or activities we could be doing, so we were ready for a change.

We had booked into a motel near to Avalon airport for the night as we would have to get up at about 3am to drive to the airport, return our rental car and catch our flight. Everything was going as planned until we got to the check in desk. We walked up to the desk and I went to put my backpack on the conveyor belt for checked bags and the lady behind the counter said ‘Don’t bother’. Uh oh! She told us that the flight had been cancelled and that we had been sent an email notification about it. I didn’t have any Australian data anymore and I hadn’t had wifi throughout the night so we didn’t know this. Actually, on later inspection anyway, the email wasn’t sent until about 10 minutes after we went to the check in desk. She told us that there were 6 seats left on a flight from the other Melbourne airport at 8.05am. We had quite a long layover in Sydney before our Auckland flight so thought that would work and they were going to drive us all over to the other airport at 6am.

We received $8 each of free food vouchers and had some coffees and muffins and waited patiently. By 6.30am we were getting a bit panicky so Simon went up to the desk to ask when we would be leaving (it’s about an hour drive). The bus pulled up shortly afterwards. We made it to Tullamarine airport at about 7.25am, had 2 bags to check and had to go through security. Uh oh again! We did a bit of running and made it to the gate with plenty of time as the flight was a little late. A flight has never been cancelled for either of us before so it was a little nerve racking, but Jetstar did sort us out and we did make our connection in Sydney for Auckland. The only thing that annoys me still about this whole experience was the reason they gave for the flight being cancelled. Now… I booked these flights about 8 months ago and even if someone was sick then you would have thought that would have been enough time to have backups in place.

There was a HUGE tailwind on both our flights, the first was meant to take 1h25 and only took 55 minutes and the second was meant to take 3h25 and only took 2h15. We were flying at 1000km/h most of the time. Super fast!

We landed in Auckland and used the sky bus service to take us into the city centre. We booked it online while we were waiting for our baggage and saved a bit of money compared to going to the desk once through security. New Zealand are super strict on what comes into their country and we had to tell them that our hiking boots had been in the Grampions National Park a few days before, but it wasn’t a problem and they let us through. Simon bought 2 bottles of Captain Morgans Spiced Rum in duty free to keep him going during our time in the Campercar. By about 5:30pm we were at our hostel and ready to go get some shopping! I have grown to enjoy looking around foreign supermarkets. Not because the food is different but because I like to look at the prices. New Zealand is pretty similar to Australia for many foods, but meat, fruit, veg, and cheese doesn’t seem to be as expensive, which is great. Also, in Australia something may have cost $10, in New Zealand it might also cost $10, but the exchange rate is far nearer to $2 to £1 than in Australia, so more value for money. YAY!! We went back to the hostel, ate and relaxed. We’d been up since 3am and even though it was only a 2 hour time difference we were feeling a little jet lagged.

The next day we woke up quite late and decided to go for a wander. Our hostel was very close to all of the piers so we headed out along the cost, along Queens Street to buy some warmer clothes and ended up having a late Sunday Roast in Danny Doolans, an Irish Pub. We hadn’t had a roast for about 2 months and I had been really craving it. This pub was offering a roast and a pint of cider for $20, which, when the pints are usually $10 over here, was a bargain. It was great too!! After this we decided to go and have a closer look at the sky tower. We hadn’t really planned to go up the sky tower, but decided that we would to get some good views and to actually ‘do’ something.

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The sky tower is a relatively new building. It’s the tallest structure in the Southern Hemisphere and provides panoramic views across Auckland. We really enjoyed our time up the sky tower, ending up staying for nearly 3 hours to watch the sunset. We also managed to skype home a few people and enjoyed a coffee in the cafe. Have a look at some of the views we had during our time up the sky tower. After the sky tower it was pretty late so we headed back to the hostel to cook some food and watch some more Californication (it’s our new thing).

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The next day we decided to take another free walking tour. These have become our go to activity in the cities that we visit and they really do help you get orientated and provide you with some history and insider info on the place. In hindsight we wished we would have been able to get up earlier and go the day before, but we had been too tired for that.

We met our walking tour guide, Louise, at Queens Wharf where most of the ferries leave to go out to the outer islands and harbour trips. You could tell that she loved living in Auckland and really wanted to share her knowledge with us all. The start of our tour was next to an old railway building and she told us about how James Cook navigated around NZ in 1769, one year before he arrived on the East Coast of Australia. Next to the railway building there was a relatively new building, which looked like a cloud. She asked us why that was and I told there that New Zealand is often called the Land of the Long White Cloud (thanks Mum). We started walking through the CBD which Louise told us was currently getting a bit of a renovation and a metro station. We had noticed the day before that there was a lot of building work going on. Apparently 50,000 people are moving into Auckland every year from around the World, making it the 4th most multicultural city. Auckland already is home to around 1/3 of the New Zealand population (around 1.5 million in Auckland) so there is a lot of work to be done to keep on top of the immigration.

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We walked down a lane way which had a red light running down it and saw a cafe that had been converted from an old cinema. This lane way used to be the main spot for sailors when they visited or arrived after a long journey, to get their fill of entertainment. It was lovely to see that the cafe had kept a lot of the quirky features of the old cinema. The floor was still slanted and you could see where the old cinema screen used to be. Unfortunately, we didn’t have enough time to go back and have a coffee there, but it’s definitely one to visit in the future.

After the CBD we were shown sights such as Suffragette square, which is also getting a face lift. We didn’t realise that Kiwi women were the first women in the World to get the vote. This square is a memorial to that. We saw the National Art Gallery and learnt more about the arrival of the British settlers to New Zealand, and the signing of the treaty that allowed the British to govern NZ, but allowed the Maori people to maintain their culture and rights as well. We couldn’t believe how different this story was compared to the indigenous people of Australia who were treated so badly. The Maori culture in NZ is so prominent and you can see Maori people everywhere you look. In our whole 8 weeks in Australia we only saw a handful of aboriginal people out and about. Simon and I were talking about why this is and we think it may have something to do with the Maori people settling on NZ from the Pacific Islands. We think that maybe because they had officially ‘settled’ there before the British that was seen as a reason to give them rights. Whereas the Australian indigenous people had been living in Australia for tens of thousands of years, the British maybe didn’t see them as advanced? This is all speculation and it is an area we would like to learn more about during our time here. The picture below shows the maori people meeting the new governor.

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We walked through Albert Park (named after Prince Albert) and through the University complex where we saw the old Government building. Simon was asked to go up to speakers corner and explain what they were. He did a good job! Louise told us about University fees here which are around £3000 a year, far more manageable than our £9000+ fees. She also told us that recently New Zealand had held a referendum (does anyone not want a referendum at the moment?). This referendum was to decide if their national flag was to be changed or not. Apparently 60% said to keep the flag the way it is, so that’s whats going to happen.

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We stopped in Emily Place, which happened to be right next to our hostel, and saw the site of the first church in Auckland. When settlers arrived here the first thing that they wanted to see was a church so it was built on the highest point, allowing ships to see it when they arrived. Now, the area has a monument to the church, with a typo on it, and is full of Pohutukawa trees. These trees are really impressive and it is illegal to cut them down or even to trim back a branch. As you’ll see from the photo this means that they have overgrown the park and you can hardly walk around there anymore.

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Our last stop was walking through the area of Britomart. This area is pretty high end and is built on the original edge of the city. This area has now been reclaimed and the water level is further away than previously, but they have a fountain to show where the boundary used to be. We walked through the Britomart train station and then headed back to Queens Wharf to end our tour. Auckland isn’t a city that is full of huge amounts of history or massively impressive buildings, but we learnt a lot about its history and heard lots of interesting stories.

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The rest of the afternoon we camped out in McDonalds to use their free wifi and book lots of tours for our time in the North Island. I still needed to buy leggings so we went to do that and then we sat on the pier and read our books for a while, enjoying the views back over to Devonport and the Harbour Bridge.

We had really enjoyed our time in Auckland. It had been an excellent start to our time in New Zealand and showed us what everyone had told us before. The people here are SOOOO friendly. You really can see why so many people are moving into the area and to New Zealand in general. The next morning we picked up our Campercar (called Maverick) and started our 6 week road trip around the North and South Islands. More stories to follow.

Victoria road trip (Great Ocean Road and The Grampions)

We were lucky enough to be able to have a car for 4 days so that we could go on a road trip throughout Victoria and drive the gorgeous Great Ocean Road. We have always felt our most relaxed when we have had our own transport and therefore have really been looking forward to New Zealand (6 weeks with a campercar… bliss!). We picked up our car. Excuse me Mum and Dad! It was a crappy little growler… an automatic which didn’t change gear until it was about to blow up and smaller than a micra. Not the best, but still gave us the freedom we wanted.
Driving in the Melbourne CBD was interesting. We had been warned about something called ‘Hook turns’, which is where you have to get into the lefthand lane to turn right and you can only turn on red?!?!?! Its got something to do with not driving in front of a tram which runs down the middle of the street. Luckily, I planned our drive so that I only had to turn left! Haha! Cheating the system! Once we had left Melbourne, we drove out towards Torquay which is known as the Gateway to the Great Ocean Road. We stopped and ate our sandwiches, but were pretty disappointed by the whole place. It was pretty dead and nothing spectacular.
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As we carried on our way we stopped at Loveridge lookout, which gave some beautiful panoramic views over the bay.
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Split point lighthouse, which is featured in the TV show ‘Round the Twist’. There is a video of us singing the theme tune, which I will show to anyone who can remember to ask in April.
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The Great Ocean Road memorial bridge. The Great Ocean Road was built by war veterans and is classed as the Worlds largest war memorial.
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And then we went a little ‘rouge’. I love a good waterfall. I just asked Simon, he also enjoys a good waterfall. We saw on the map there was a waterfall just North of the Great Ocean Road in the Otways National Park called Eskrine Falls. Obviously we had to go. The road started to turn quite dirt track like at times and we were worried for our little crap mobile, but we made it there. It was super impressive and also massive! We enjoyed spending some time here.
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After the waterfalls the sensible thing to do would have been to drive back to the Great Ocean Road and carry on our way. It was already about 5pm, but no! At that moment, I got it into my head that we needed to see a platypus so off we headed to a lake we had heard about in the Otway National Park called Lake Elizabeth. I’m sure we’ve seen this lake on a Ray Mears TV show at some point. It took about an hour to get there because of the even worse dirt tracks this time and we didn’t see another car the entire time. We got there to an empty car park and then learnt that it was about another 40 minutes to walk to the lake. We had about an hour till it would start getting dark. Power walking got us there quite quickly and the lake took our breath away. It was just so beautiful and peaceful. I’m so glad we went there. We think we saw a platypus from quite a distance on the surface, but it was very hard to tell. Looking at youtube videos since has shown that the movement of the water that we saw matches the movement of a platypus swimming at the surface so we’re hopeful! Even if we didn’t, the lake was the most relaxing place we’ve been to since the start of our travels.
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We saw about 10 kangaroos on the way back as well, which was amazing. I was getting pretty worried at one point that they were going to run out in front of the car, but luckily they just stayed by the side or hopped off into the bush.
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We finally bad in to our hostel in Apollo Bay, got a takeaway pizza and crashed. It has been a very busy day.
The next day we headed off from Apollo Bay and were going to be ending in Port Fairy. Our stops along this route included.
A rainforest walk.
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Gibson steps, which is where you can get your first glimpse of the 12 apostles.
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The 12 apostles.
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Loch arg Gorge.
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The Razorback.
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London Bridge.
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The Grotto (some American’s were pronouncing it Growtoe).
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All of these amazing sights were just beautiful and the photos truly don’t do them justice. We also stopped in Port Campbell for an ice-cream. I had a Gaynetto and Simon had a Gaytime. Google it. It’s real. While we had a drink and ate our ice-cream we learnt that Donald Trump was probably going to win the election, so that became the topic of conversation for the next 100km as we made our way to Port Fairy for the night.
We arrived in Port Fairy terrified we were going to get murdered at the YHA. It was that kind of town and the YHA was that kind of hostel. Most of the guests were over 50 years old and one guy decided it would be a good idea to give me some literature about how science is a lie after I told him I was a science teacher. Creepy!!! We decided to start watching Californication and go to bed.
In the morning I was a little ashamed with myself for feeling so badly about this town as when we went for a walk around, it was actually a pretty cute little seaside town. We did a 1 hour walk around the nature reserve, which is home to a colony of Shearwaters, and the town before getting into the car to head to the Grampions. The photo below is of a cool bird, but I couldn’t tell you if its a Shearwater. Please let me know what you think.
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From here we drove up to the Grampions National Park. The scenery was so beautiful after about an hour of driving and we kept stopping to take pictures of the mountains. We drove along a lot of very straight roads for quite a long time before making it to Halls Pass where we would be staying.
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When we got to Halls Pass we went and had a look around the Aboriginal Centre to learn a bit more about the history of the area. We learnt some more horrible stories of how the aboriginal people were treated when the settlers came. This visit made us want to go and see some of their history so we drove to one of the rock art sites to see some aboriginal cave paintings. This one is of Bujil who is believed to be creator of everything and his 2 dingo companions.
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We had a few more stops to do this afternoon and we headed to MacKenzie Falls. We stopped at a view point first to get an overview of the area.
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And on the way to MacKenzie Falls we saw Broken Falls.
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When we got to the waterfall we couldn’t quite believe it. This waterfall was out of this World. It was sooooo impressive.
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We saw another Kangaroo, went to another view point and then headed to our last waterfall of the day, Silverband Falls.
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The next day we headed to a city called Ballarat which is known for being the centre of the Gold rush that happened in Victoria. We had a lovely lunch looking over the lake (there were more black swans) and then headed to our Motel for the night near the airport. We had an early flight the next day (6am) or so we thought to Sydney and then onto Auckland in New Zealand. More on the, or so we thought, in the next blog post. The majority of our time in Australia has come to an end and despite being sad to be leaving a country that has brought us so much happiness, we are pretty ready to head onto New Zealand. Lets start the next adventure. 🙂
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Melbourne

As you now know, we arrived in Melbourne not feeling the best. Simon was struggling the most at this point, with me mainly through the worst of it. After a stressful few hours of travelling we made it to our air b and b accommodation, which was lovely. More on that later. Simon settled straight into bed and the rest of the day was written off. We were told by a few people before our trip and also from a few blogs on youtube that if you’re sick, just stop, otherwise you will end up unwell for even longer than necessary. We decide to follow this advice. I caught up with bake off on youtube and wrote some blogs. Simon slept.
Whatever we did worked and the next day we felt well enough to go out and explore a little. Our air b and b was located near to the Botanical Gardens and the Shrine of Remembrance in South Melbourne. We left the apartment planning to walk to the Botanical Gardens, but ended up exploring the Shrine of Remembrance for about 2 hours. The SoR is a memorial museum dedicated to Australian men and women who have been affected by war and humanitarian aid throughout history. Initially, walking around the memorial, we were impressed by how beautiful it was and how well it was presented, but then we found the museum. You could spend days in here and never read and look at all of the memorabilia. Simon was fascinated. I was amazed. We felt that the timing of finding this memorial couldn’t be any better with Remembrance day coming up and spent a good amount of time here learning. The balcony of the SoR provided the most beautiful views of the city that we had during our time in Melbourne, and despite cold, we admired the views for a while.
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So… lets touch on the weather. I’m cold. I know I can’t complain. I know it’s freezing in the UK. I’ve even seen some snow pictures. We spent a good 6 weeks in 28-34 degree weather and now it’s 15 degrees… I’m cold. Melbourne has the strangest weather as well. We were told it’s the city that has 4 seasons in a day, and we weren’t surprised that this was true. One minute it could be cloudy and cold, the next up to 22 degrees and sunny and then start raining and be cold again. It’s been a bit of a shock to the system, but at least we’ll hopefully be a little more prepared for New Zealand weather now.
It was time to head into the CBD for our next ‘I’m free’ walking tour. The company has expanded out to Melbourne and I have to say, I enjoyed this walking tour more. I felt like we saw more in the 3 hour tour and learnt far more about the history of the city. Our tour guide was so funny. Everything he said he repeated about 3 times in different ways, but maybe that lead to us remembering more afterwards and therefore the feeling of having learnt more. Who knows?! We met the walking tour at the State Library at exactly the same time that a protest was happening. People were protesting about Australia not taking on enough refugees and not helping enough. The turn out was massive and our guides told us that it’s a cause that many Australians are very passionate about.
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We walked up to the Old Jailhouse and learnt that this was the Jail that held the famous Bush ranger Ned Kelly before his execution. We also learnt that the youngest inmate ever to spend time at this Jail was 3 years old for being lazy and disorderly. What?! From here we headed up to see the Convention centre. Interestingly, this building was the first building in Australia to be protected by UNESCO?, even before the Opera House! Apparently, they like to brag about that in Melbourne.
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We walked along Bourke street and learnt some more about the history of Melbourne and how it was named after Lord Melbourne, an old Prime Minister of the UK. Bourke was able to design Melbourne from scratch and went for a layout that involved a gird system for the CBD, made up of one large street then one small lane street. This has lead to Melbourne having a lot of very interesting little lane ways and has built up the culture of lane way coffee drinking and street art.
We walked through Chinatown. There’s always a Chinatown. But in Melbourne there is also a Little Italy, Greek street and so many other ‘regions’. We nearly asked where Britain street was, but then realised that most of Australia is officially Britain street. Whoopsie.
We had a little break and then we were heading off to see the ‘real’ Melbourne. It was time to see all the quirky lane ways and street art. Many of the lane ways allow artists to put up legal graffiti, which will stay on a temporary or permanent basis. Here’s a selection of the lane ways we saw.
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After looking at all the lane ways, we walked past the famous Flinders Street Station before heading over the Yarra River. My Mum had told us about the black swans which you can find on the Yarra river so we were keeping our eyes peeled. We didn’t see any this time though. We finished our walking tour in the arts district and with a view of the Eureka tower and the Melbourne skyline. We’d had a great walking tour and felt like we’d seen a huge amount of Melbourne whilst doing it.
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We walked back through the city to see some more of the lane way art, but decided that we’d probably had enough for the day and should go back and rest!!
The next day we decided to stay out of the city centre and explore South Melbourne a little more and the area of St Kilda. We were both starting to get our appetite back and it was Sunday so the best thing to do on a Sunday in Melbourne is go for brunch! I’d looked up this little cafe online around the corner from where we were staying and off we went. It was called Magic and we had the best meal. I’m not one to put photos of food on Facebook, but this time I needed to because it was so good!
Feeling fuller and happier we took a stroll through the South Melbourne markets. We kept saying how if we lived here we would definitely come here often to buy meat, fruit and veg and all the pretty home decoration bits and bobs. Everything seemed far more reasonably priced than the supermarkets, so maybe this is the key to living cheaply in Australia? The whole market was bustling and it really had such an amazing atmosphere.
After our walk around the markets, we headed down to South Melbourne beach to walk along the promenade to St Kilda beach. We saw the ferry port where the ferry leaves for Tasmania and just enjoyed a stroll. We wanted to see where St Kilda Pier was as we were going to be heading back here later to try and find the Little Fairy Penguins. The whole walk reminded me of being in the UK. The weather was far more similar than we had been used to recently and just the feel of the area reminded us of being at home. Before heading back to the apartment for a rest before coming out to see the penguins, we had a walk around Luna Park. Luna Park is an old style amusement park, which definitely is also in Sydney, We didn’t want to go on any of the rides, they were pretty expensive and also looked pretty old and rickety, but it was worth a look.
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We took the tram back, had a few hours to relax and then headed back out ready to see some penguins. Most people who visit Melbourne choose to go over to Philips Island and see the Little Fairy Penguins, but everything has been so expensive in Australia that we have been trying desperately to do the same things, but cut costs where possible. We had heard that St Kilda Breakwater also has a colony of Little Fairy Penguins, but the whole viewing is far less touristy than the Penguin Parade at Philips Island, and free!
We walked down to the Pier just before sunset and were pleasantly surprised to see some penguins even before sunset. We were told the best time to visit is at sunset as the penguins come back in from a days hunting to their colony on the rock. At this time there is usually the most, but also you can see them swimming in and jumping back up onto the rocks. We had a magical evening, even though it was pretty busy. I think the word’s gotten out about the penguins there. They needed around 10 volunteers telling people to not flash with their cameras or use white lights. Luckily, these volunteers had some red light torches that they used to show us the penguins and to let us take some photos. We ended up spending about 2.5 hours wandering around and watching the penguins jump up onto the rocks, looking at the fluffy babies and speaking to one of the volunteers about the colony of around 1500 penguins. We were blessed with a great spot and were even able to see the waves they were creating as they swam in. At one point a sea rat tricked us all into thinking he was a penguin though. Cheeky sea rat! We headed back to the accommodation so happy with the whole experience.
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On our last day in Melbourne we spent some more time in the CBD and to finally head to the Botanical Gardens. I think I was having a little bit of a relapse this morning as I was feeling pretty weak, so the Botanical Gardens was a bit of a green blur. It was very pretty and there was this cool boat machine thing that drove around on the surface of the water breaking up algae, as they were having problems with a bloom at the time.
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We then walked up to the CBD and had a wander around trying to find the little lane ways so that we could have a coffee ‘Melbourne style’. It was a pretty good coffee and the atmosphere was great with people walking up and down the lane way while we chatted and slurped away. Simon has been pretty interested in the Ned Kelly story, so we went up to the State Library to see some of the artefacts of his life. Ned Kelly is seen as a good guy, but also a pretty bad guy as well. He was a bush ranger and many people said he was like Robin Hood as he would steal from banks and rich people and sometimes give back to the poor. An example being him burning mortgage documents in a bank so that people were mortgage free. However, he did kill police men during his run from the law and as you can see, he is also a pretty bad guy. On the day he was captured he wore a very iron man like suit as he came out from hiding which we got to see in the library. There is an apparently good movie called ‘Ned’ starring Heath Ledger which we’ve been advised to watch, but unfortunately wifi is never good enough to rent a movie and we haven’t been able to find it in any of the hostel.
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Our last stop of our last day was down to the Yarra River in the hunt for those elusive black swans again. We were sat on the bank of the river watching all the rowing clubs practice when we saw some black swans on the other side. We decided to go down the river, cross the bridge and catch up with them so we could take some photos. As soon as we got to the other side they stopped and came over to us, posing for photos. It’s like they knew. The black swan is extinct in New Zealand and is only found in South East Australia. I don’t know much more about it, but they were really interesting to watch and I have to admit it was pretty weird seeing a swan that was black instead of white. I wonder if they are still protected by the Queen? I hope so… we don’t want anyone thinking she’s racist.
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We had an early start the next morning collecting our car for the Great Ocean Road so we headed back to the apartment and watched some Netflix stand up comedy and a movie with one of the guys we were staying with. We had the best time with our air b and b hosts. They were so kind and caring, helpful throughout the whole stay and just really interesting guys. One of them was from Columbia originally and the other was from New Zealand so we learnt lots of interesting tips from him for our time there. It was really lovely to have some time in someones home. It has been awhile since we could just treat somewhere like ours and we were really grateful to them for that.

A surprise trip to Sydney

About a week before our arrival in Sydney, we had a bit of a change of plans. We were originally going to be spending some time in Newcastle with some of Simon’s side of the family, but when we realised that some of them were going to be in China during that time, we decided to rearrange our plans and visit them after Christmas. Where do you go instead? Sydney of course!
To say I had really high expectations of Sydney was an understatement. Simon goes on about Sydney as his favourite place in the World and my Mum ranks it as her second favourite city in the world, after San Francisco. We arrived at about 1.30am on our Greyhound from Port Macquaire. There is something about Port Macquaire and Greyhounds, because we were late arriving and late leaving. The Greyhound was 1.5 hours late. As I said before, we have been really impressed with the Greyhounds as a whole, so we’ll blame Port Macquaire instead (even though we really liked it there). Our driver woke us up to tell us that we would be driving over the Sydney Harbour Bridge soon and seeing the bridge and the Opera House like that at that time of the morning, got me super excited for our few days exploring.
We walked to our hostel, Maze Backpackers. This place is a maze, quite literally. It is the largest hostel we’ve stayed at during our time in Australia and the most disgusting by far. We had a private room quite luckily, as you will see further on in this blog, but the place still stunk and was just pretty nasty. We have been trying to stay at hostels that have a 8.5 ranking or higher if possible. I believe this one was 7.5, but a rearrange from free accommodation for 3 nights with family, to 3 nights in Sydney meant that our budget was tight. Our New Years accommodation was unable to refund us the 3 nights we would be with family after Christmas, so cheap it was. MASSIVE MASSIVE mistake! Let me reassure you, I will never ever book a place like that again. Read on to find out more.
We woke up on our first day in Sydney, eager and raring to go. We walked from our hostel down to the Chinese Garden of Friendship. Simon had been here previously and loved it so we decided to go back, even though it now cost to go in. We spent a good hour and a half walking around and enjoying the beautiful views. It was so lovely to see such a hidden side to Sydney before we went out to see the ‘bigger’ sights.
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Our next stop was Darling Harbour. This day happened to be Melbourne Cup day, which is a huge horse racing event. All along Darling Harbour the bars and restaurants were full of people dressed up for a day at the races. The atmosphere was amazing and we wondered around for about an hour before we went to join our walking tour.
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We had heard of a company called ‘I’m free’ tours. The company works in a similar way to the walking tour we took in Brisbane, meaning the tours were free and at the end you can donate how much you felt the tour was worth. There was quite a group of us so it was lucky we had 2 guides. Ours was the founder and owner of the company, born and bred in Sydney and fresh back from Bangkok that morning. The starting point of our tour was the Town Hall, which we learnt was originally on the edge of the cities boundary and the site of the graveyard. When Town Hall was being built, they found a lot of remains and even now when they do repair works they sometimes find remains in the foundations. EWW! Across from town hall was a church, surrounded by pretty Jacaranda trees.
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From Town Hall we headed to the Queen Victoria Building (QVC) where we found the first Christmas tree of the season (1st November). The Building was beautiful and it lead down into some underground tunnels that connected us to a mall a few streets over.
We walked through Hyde Park and saw the barracks, which was originally built when they realised that all of the convicts that lived in Sydney were running free in the city and causing problems. We also saw the ‘rum hospital’. The city needed a hospital, but there was no funding from the UK to build it, so the Sydney hospital was built by 3 men in return for them having full rights to the sale of rum in the city. Therefore, the hospital has developed the name of ‘rum hospital’.
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We saw lots more buildings in the CBD and learnt why the Australian coat of arms has an emu and a kangaroo. Both of these animals are unable to walk backwards, so it was thought that Australia would be unable to go backwards with these animals on its coat of arms. We headed down some lane ways, one had a lot of bird cages hanging down over the alley. We learnt that there has been an attempt recently from Sydney to become a little more like Melbourne and they have been displaying art work in lane ways to try and be a bit more arty. This aviary instillation was so well received that it was installed permanently.
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Eventually, we made it to the main sights up at circular quay, The Rocks, The Opera House and The Harbour Bridge. The area was very busy, but in a good way. I have said this to Simon a few times before ‘Nothing ever looks like I expect it to’. Sydney was exactly the same. The Opera House was more creamy in colour than I expected and its position to the harbour wasn’t what I thought it would be. The Harbour Bridge looked more industrial, but none of this was bad. Just different. We walked through The Rocks, which was the area in which the first settlers built Sydney. Effectively, it’s the birthplace of Sydney. We zoomed through this area on the walking tour, but plan to do another free walking tour about The Rocks area when we return to Sydney at new year.
The last stop of our tour was with a perfect view of the Harbour Bridge and of the Opera House. We learnt that there was a worldwide competition for the design of the Opera House, which was won by a Dutch architect. Unfortunately, the project ended up costing more than expected and it was decided that the best way to tackle this problem was to not pay the architect. He quit and returned to the Netherlands, never to see the Opera House completed. It’s still not completed internally to the standard he planned it to be. We were told that many houses in The Rocks were destroyed so that the Harbour Bridge could be built. These people were evicted and given nothing in return. Apparently, the people in area call the Harbour Bridge as the ‘coat hanger’ and don’t view the bridge that favourably. Despite a little bit of a dark history, both of these monuments are still unbelievably impressive.
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After our tour we hung around for a while longer, admiring the views and the cruise ship that was in dock. This cruise ship was MASSIVE and we are looking forward to it not being there at new year as it dominated Circular Quay. We walked back to our hostel, cooked dinner and settled in for an early night. We had 2 more busy days planned.
The next morning we woke up and got on the bus to Bondi beach. Bondi is probably the most famous beach in Australia, known primarily for its surfing culture. We arrived quite amazed that such a beautiful beach could be only 20 minutes away from such a large city. There was a lot of street art along the promenade of Bondi, which we enjoyed whilst having a coffee and a juice. We then set off on the Bondi to Coogee beach walk.
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There was a 2 week art installation all along the first portion of the walk and along with that came A LOT of people as well as a lot of VERY naughty school groups. I will touch upon my feelings about school children in Australia a little here and a little in a future blog.
Here are a few observations I have made
  1. A lot of school children are out of school during school hours. I’m really not sure why, but we often see kids walking around in uniform in groups at about 1/2pm in places that wouldn’t just be for a lunch break.
  2. Kids are taken out of school quite a lot for outdoor activities which is brilliant. We saw a large group of teenagers having a PE lesson on the beach at Bondi, playing football, rugby and just messing around in the sea.
  1. All school kids are required to wear hats when out in the sun. I’m not sure if this continues to apply for secondary age kids.
  2. Most groups of kids are pretty rude in terms of swearing and the way they are around members of the public. On the radio over here there is no censorship. We were listening to the radio earlier and the presenters swear, the songs are not censored and therefore it doesn’t surprise me to hear some awful things coming out of the kids mouths in front of the teachers.
I obviously can’t generalise from the little I have seen of school kids, but from what I have seen, I think that behaviour is better in the UK. We have stopped and observed groups when we can, just out of interest as a teacher, and the teachers do NOTHING. I completely get being exhausted by teaching and not putting 100% in, but they are doing NOTHING a lot of the time to control behaviour. Whilst walking along this art installation we saw different groups of kids, from different schools climbing on the art work, bashing into members of the public, swearing and just being plan rude, all with the teachers doing very little. I don’t think I could embrace this way of teaching, if this is normal.
Yes… this is a flip flop vending machine…
img_3748Sorry for the side chat there… Once the art installation ended, the walk was beautiful and peaceful. We ended up in Coogee, which I preferred to Bondi and had a subway for lunch. There is a very good chance that this is where everything went wrong. There is also a very good chance that it went wrong way before this at the dirty horrible hostel. We will never know. We got on the bus and went back to the hostel, having a few hours to relax before we headed to Darling Harbour to go to the Hardrock Cafe for dinner. I fell asleep, was pretty cold and woke up feeling ‘special’ to say the least. I managed to walk to Hardrock, sit down, and then very quickly told Simon that we needed to leave. The next 36 hours or so is a bit of a blur. Lets just say I wasn’t very well. We had to bail on our trip to the Blue Mountains the next day and we spent the day with me recovering in the hostel, hoping I would be ok for our flight to Melbourne. We thought Simon had escaped the dreaded ‘food poisoning’ (which is what we thought it was), but he decided to develop the illness on the plane to Melbourne. We didn’t have a fun 3/4 days in total. We’re pretty sure now that it was Gastro enteritis rather than food poisoning, but I guess we’ll never know. We were both gutted to miss out on a full day in Sydney, but are happy that we will be returning at new year. We just know that we will have to make up for it then. It’s going to be busy!!!
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24 hours in Yamba vs 22 hours in Port Macquaire

Many people take an over night bus from Brisbane to Sydney, or stop only at Surfers Paradise on the Gold Coast and Byron Bay. We decided we didn’t want to be like those people. You know us, not conventional. In hindsight, I think we should have stopped on the Gold Coast, as quite a few people have said how much we would have loved it. When we return to Australia on another holiday (who knows when) I think we would like to spend some time around the Gold Coast, more time on the Sunshine Coast and head into the Outback and Uluru. But, that’s another trip.

So what did we decided to do? There is one bus that runs from Byron Bay straight down to Sydney, so we decided to take that bus, but stop twice catching the bus again the next day. Each time was meant to be for 24 hours (more on that later). Yamba had been recommended to us as a pretty little seaside town and so had Port Macquaire. The other option was Coffs Harbour, but everyone said Port Macquaire was nicer.

We arrived in Yamba at 2pm on a Saturday. Mistake number 1. 90% of the shops, cafes and bars shut at 1pm on Saturday and don’t open again until Monday. On arrival at our hostel (the YHA) we felt like we were in prison. We heard a woman getting a royal telling off by the lady on the front desk for apparently climbing out of her window, onto the roof and smoking a cigarette… not very plausible. There were signs EVERYWHERE that said we were liable for a $1800 fine if the smoke alarm goes off by mistake for any reason (these reasons included: using hair straighteners, having a too hot shower, spraying bug spray, spraying deodorant.. list of ridiculousness went on.

I had heard about a free walking guide that is produced by the museum so I downloaded that and off we set for coastal walk number 2, in as many days. The map told us the walk was a 3km circuit, with some hills and would hit some of the highlights of Yamba on the way. We walked along the marina and the Clarence river which was very pretty.

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We saw a very large pelican.

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After this the walk took us around to a board which told us all about the history of the local breakwaters. I had to drag Simon away… I had no idea he was so interested in them. Yawn! We saw a few pretty beaches around here, before seeing the area that had been quarried for the breakwaters.

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Some people were staring out to see, so we asked what they had seen and they told us there was a pod of dolphins. YAY! We will never get tired of seeing whales and dolphins in the wild.

We walked up to the lighthouse, which was a little underwhelming in comparison to the one in Cape Byron, but provided some lovely views out over the area.

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Our walk then carried us along the coast, past a few more pretty beaches and a cenotaph. All very lovely, but honestly… that was it.

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I don’t know what it is about Yamba, but we both weren’t feeling it. We returned to town to try and figure out what we were going to do for dinner. Our options were severely limited!!! We ate scrambled eggs with bel peppers, sweetcorn and packet pasta. Oh my… it was weird. I promise you all, we have been eating REALLY well for most of our trip, but that was a low point. The kitchen was a state as well, people were just leaving washing up everywhere and the sides were dirty. Not ideal.. AT ALL!!!

The next day, we woke up and went back to one of the beaches to catch some sun and read our books before our bus. We had a lovely smoothie back at our hostel just before the bus came and off we went.

Here’s some history about breakwaters for anyone who’s interested before I move onto Port Macquaire:

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Our next stop was Port Macquaire. The trip was meant to be 4.5 hours on the greyhound, but turned into 6.5 hours due to a head on collision on the motorway about 5 minutes up from us. The last we heard, both people were alive, but in a critical condition. Here’s hoping they’re ok!

We arrived in Port Macquaire quite late, too late too do anything except find food. We found the best deal in Australia. $5.95 for a large pizza at dominos. That is an absolute steal over here! We devoured our pizzas and had a lovely chat with the people in our hostel. Every single one of them was just so friendly and chatty and we spent a good amount of time enjoying everyones company. Already wishing, we had come a day earlier so we could have attended their Halloween party.

We went to bed and got up to do, guess what?!, a coastal walk the next day. This one, I was super excited about though. I can’t say why, I just was already enjoyed Port Macquaire more than Yamba and there seemed to be a lot more going on here. I was right to be excited.

We went down to the start of the walk, Town Beach, where we enjoyed a smoothie to start off the walk. They were EXCELLENT!

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From here the walk began. I won’t go into all the detail, as you will very quickly get bored of my coastal walk ramblings, but I’ll show you some of the highlights.

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It then rained pretty badly and we had to hide under Gum trees for about 20 minutes.

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Our final stop, was guess what?! A lighthouse! A very cute little one this time.

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The walk was 9km, so we decided to take the bus back to town from this point, as we had a date with a koala hospital!!! 🙂 🙂

The koala hospital in Port Macquaire is the only one of its kind in the world, and it’s free! They take in koalas that have been found by locals, rehabilitate, treat and release them if possible. We arrived at 3pm so were there for a free tour of the hospital and it was so good! I would recommend this to anyone who visits this area.

The first thing I was surprised by, is how many koalas are infected with Chlamydia that come into the hospital. The strain of Chlamydia that affects them, primarily affects their eyes and can cause blindness in many.

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The hospital is completely funded by donations, receiving nothing from the government. However, they have managed to save and now have a koala ambulance! Isn’t this the cutest thing!?

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We went around the park with a British lady, who has been living in Oz for a long time now, and heard about all the koalas that are now living permanently in their care. We were unable to see the koalas in rehabilitation as they needed as minimal contact with humans as possible during their time in the hospital.

This little guy stood out to me. His name was Xavier and he is now completely blind. He struggles to eat and has to be syringe fed soya milk a few times a day as a supplement. Most koalas are lactose intolerant and receive all of their nutrients from the eucalyptus they eat.

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We saw lots of other koalas on our way around who had been in road traffic accidents and were blind through severe chlamydia infections. Here’s just a few photos of the many I took.

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We just loved it here. The centre is made up of 170 volunteers and they are all doing such an amazing job to look after these amazing animals. Well done!!

After this, we popped into the Roto timber house next door, which is a house that has been preserved in the area that used to be inhabited by the Flynn family. It was interesting to see a house from 1891 and see the style of living at the time. The volunteer who told us a bit about the house was from Whitby, but had been in Australia for 48 years now.

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We walked back to our hostel, ready to catch the greyhound bus to Sydney and our 22 hours in Port Macquaire were over.

So… 24 hours in Yamba vs. 22 hours in Port Macquaire. I think you can see where this is going. We loved Port Macquaire and didn’t love Yamba. There was just so much to see and do in Port Macquaire and the feel of the place was just so much more positive and welcoming. We could have easily spent more time here and explored more of the local area whereas in Yamba we had done it all after our 3km, 1 hour walk. My advice would be, stop in Yamba if you have you own car and can get out of there after a few hours, but don’t stop if you are relying on public transport and never ever EVER visit on a Saturday or Sunday.

Byron Bay

We arrived in Byron Bay with very high expectations. So many people rave about how they loved their time in Byron Bay and ended up staying far longer than they planned to.

Our Greyhound bus came in relatively late on the first day and we only had 2 nights to enjoy Byron Bay. We got to our hostel and were pleased to see that our 2 beds in our dorm room were the only 2 that were occupied. We just crossed our fingers and hoped that this would stay the same throughout our time there. The hostel was obviously designed for partiers, as when we arrived there were quite a lot of people feeling sorry for themselves asleep on the sofas in the common area. Bear in mind, it was about 4pm by this point. We got our beach blanket and books and headed down to the beach (2 minutes out the back of the hostel) and relaxed on the beach for a few hours. What happened next was quite surprising… we hadn’t seen it in a while… it rained. We had planned to go for a walk that evening to see the sunset, but the rain kept on coming, so we stayed in, made food and then went for a walk around the town after the rain had stopped. Saw this funny sign too! haha.

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Byron Bay centre is really lovely. There are lots of little boutique shops, restaurants and cafes that you can enjoy. We found a frozen yoghurt bar that was open after dinner and enjoyed some frozen yoghurt topped with fresh fruit. Yummy!! We decided to head to bed and get up early the next day to do the lighthouse walk.

What we have learnt recently is that however long someone says a walk will take, add about 30-50% more. As many of you will know, Simon and I are really quick walkers, but for some reason everyone underestimates the length of the walks in the area they live in. We set off early on the lighthouse walk, expecting it to take us until lunch time (there and back). We got back around 2pm, but it was a beautiful walk.

It takes around 30 minutes to get out of the town and to get onto the coastal path and I think we ended up taking a detour that we didn’t need to take down to a viewpoint. I’m glad we did though as we saw some Humpback Whales again and got to watch some of the surf schools.

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(The whale is the splash)

We carried on our way along the coastal path and ‘bumped’ into the most Easterly point of mainland Australia. We had no idea that we were near to this and were pretty chuffed with ourselves when we saw the sign. On our way we stopped, saw some lizards and did some seated dips… as you do!

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The wifi is really good here.. so you’re going to get some bonus shots of some wildlife on the way.

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The next stop was the lighthouse itself. The Cape Byron Lighthouse was built in the 19th Century and is a pretty good looking lighthouse. We saw some more Humpback Whales from this viewpoint and enjoyed the shade the lighthouse offered us. It was a VERY VERY hot day.

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We walked back the opposite way to Byron Bay and along a path which lead us to see turtles, a pod of dolphins and even more Humpback whales. We were truly spoilt with our wildlife this day. And then… around the corner… was the most beautiful beach we had seen in our time in Australia. We were both getting a little bit fed up of beautiful beach after beautiful beach (I know… spoilt Brats aren’t we), but this one really was something magical. Simon didn’t want to leave, he was captivated by it. See what you think for yourselves.

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(Humpback – hopefully quite clear)

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(Pod of dolphins in the middle)

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Once we returned to Byron Bay we found a lovely cafe called Byron Fresh, ordered some cold drinks and some baked goods and set up with some semi decent wifi for the afternoon. This is what Byron Bay life is meant to be like. Chilling out and enjoying an iced latte. To top it all off, an excellent musician played for about an hour. His name was Austin Thomas and he played covers but also some originals, mainly about backpacking and traveling the world. We really enjoyed his music during our relax. https://www.facebook.com/pg/austinthomasoriginals/about/?ref=page_internal

The next morning we were going to be leaving Byron Bay and to end Byron Bay in the way it’s designed for, we relaxed and did some New Zealand research on the last morning. Simon has been obsessively reading the Jack Reacher books recently, so enjoyed some more time to read that.

So… our views on Byron Bay. I have to admit I was a little underwhelmed by Byron Bay. I can see why people may end up staying for a while, maybe even to work, as it is a very laid back town. By Byron Bay we had started to be a little more conscious of money and I think if we’d had a little more to play with in terms of drinks and eating out then maybe we could have enjoyed it even more. You will start to notice a coastal walk trend over the next few days as it’s the most enjoyable free activity on the East Coast. The timings of our buses meant we didn’t get a huge amount of time here and to be honest we wanted to make the most of an empty dorm room (yes! It stayed empty the whole time) and watched movies and sorted out photos. There is a day trip to the town of Nimbin, from Byron, which we would have liked to have done if we’d had another day here, and more money,  but both are limited at the moment.