A South-East Asia adjustment period…

To clarify before I start we are loving our time in South-East Asia. We have been in Thailand now for 19 days and so far it has been amazing. I can honestly say that we haven’t felt scared, pressured or worried at any part so far. I know a lot of our friends and family were a little more worried about us being in S.E Asia compared to New Zealand and Australia, but so far they have had zero to worry about. I would say that is partly down to research. Knowing how much things cost, what the common scams are and the Thai customs have meant we have slipped straight into being tourists here with no issues. All that being said, there are some adjustments that we are having to get used to.

Toilets! We have encountered so many different types of toilets in 19 days. Here is a brief overview.

  • The standard Western toilet (flush, seat and nice and high above the ground) – No issues here.
  • A Western toilet, but with no flush. So on this one, you have to pour bucket loads of water down the toilet after your business. Not massively effective I must say…
  • A flushing squat toilet. This one’s ok too. You have to squat, but a squat never killed anyone and it flushes for you. Great.
  • A non-flushing squat toilet. Now we’re getting a bit hairy. This is what we encountered on our overnight train to Chiang Mai. So, as the train was rocking all over the place we had to pour water down the toilet. Also, the smell is far worse on these ones.
  • A squat hole. This is as it sounds… a hole in the ground. I would be reluctant to even call this a toilet. The smell is very very very bad.

In Thailand you aren’t allowed to put anything down the toilet other than your standard 1s and 2s. All toilet paper goes in a bin… I think I dislike this the most. We’re doing fine though, just an adjustment.

Bugs! I hate biting insects. Like… detest! Unfortunately for me I am like a chew toy for insects and I have to admit, I’m getting pretty fed up. Whilst travelling nothing has made me think ‘I want to go home’, but I have to admit, the thought has crossed my mind at times when it comes to the bites. Now you’re probably thinking, ‘Becky, why don’t you use some bug spray?’ I have! A lot! I have tried 3 different insect repellants in the last 19 days. 20%, 40% and 50% DEET. I have applied this up to 4 times a day on some days (I’m getting increasingly concerned about the health risks of this). I have been sleeping (uncomfortably) in long trousers and tops and I have been wearing long clothes whenever I can, and nothing is helping. This morning I found 7 more bites on me… how is this possible? It is driving me insane!! I had similar problems in Australia and New Zealand, but we have reached a new level. Simon is getting the odd bite, but nothing in comparison to what’s happening to me. It’s making me sad 😦 Luckily, we’re not in a malaria risk zone yet, but I will be starting to take anti malarial tablets before we cross into Laos.

Food! We love Thai food, but, I’m starting to feel like we are eating the same things over and over again. It’s not uncommon for the Thai people to eat noodles, rice and soups for breakfast, as well as lunch and dinner. The thought of eating noodles for breakfast makes me feel quite sick and I’ve always stuck to eggs and toast, but for lunch and dinner the food is quite samey. The variety of Thai food is far greater than we’re used to at home, but it doesn’t stop the style being the same and also the fact that it is very noodle and rice heavy. We have had to go for the occasional Western meal just to change things up a bit, which is a shame, because the cost is about 4 times more than local cuisine.

Language! I was expecting there to be a far greater communication barrier, but so far we’re not finding that. Most Thai people speak good English and are very patient whilst you sign out something or get a location up on a map for them. It’s been absolutely stress free. It will be interesting to see if this continues into Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia.

Environment! Thailand is a pretty busy place. There is a lot going on. There is a lot of traffic and there are a lot of people in a small place. Only last night we were walking along the pavement and they put phone boxes, post boxes, signs and benches right in the middle of the path, forcing you onto the road to walk. There are scooters and tuk tuks everywhere and often no pedestrian crossings meaning you just have to walk into the road to cross. They always slow down or drive around you, but it goes against everything we were taught about in our stop, look, listen videos at school. Thailand is also a lot like Hong Kong in that there are more smells than at home. Food, sewage and rubbish smells are everywhere, which aren’t always bad smells, but more than we’re used to.

Koh Chang… just what we needed

To say we needed a few days just relaxing on a beach and not doing a lot may sound ludicrous to you all… ‘But, you have been on holiday for months now… how could you possibly need a break?’ The answer is simple. Travelling is tiring and absolutely not the same as a holiday.

Most of our time in Australia and New Zealand was very go go go. We spent many days constantly walking around or driving in the case of New Zealand. We would stop often, clean the camper, cook or prepare 3 meals a day and it was tiring. Especially on the days with early starts and long hikes. I know a lot of you don’t believe me, but I promise it’s true. So when we made it to Thailand we decided that we would take some time out and make the 7 ish hour trip to the second largest island in Thailand (after Phuket) and just relax. Our itinerary until mid March means that we aren’t going to see the beach a whole lot (Northern Thailand and Laos are landlocked, and Vietnam in the North is quite chilly this time of year), so why not?!

Getting the bus tickets was really simple. We used the tour desk at our Bangkok hotel and having completed some research beforehand we knew what a good price was so we didn’t get fooled around. The bus we travelled with was a VIP bus (ooo errr). I honestly think that just means as close to Western standards as possible. There was a toilet on board (i’ll go into toilets in another blog) and we stopped for a snack half way through. Once we made it to Centrepoint ferry terminal we had a short wait before we boarded the 45 minute ferry over to Koh Chang. The company arranged all this for us and gave us our return tickets. The cost was 550 baht each, each way (around £12).

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Once we made it to Koh Chang we had to get to where we were staying. Lining the pier were loads of pick up trucks that had been converted into taxis. 12 people could fit uncomfortably in the back, but we heard stories of up to 18 in there. It was a fixed price to our beach, lonely beach, and once the taxi was full we headed off with our bags strapped to the top. As people needed to get off he’d stop, grab their bag and off we went. It started to downpour quite quickly into the ride, so the poor driver had to get out and attach the shutters. He got absolutely soaked. It was then that the whole truck load of us realised no one had the waterproof cover on their bags.  Luckily, both our bags proved to be pretty good investments and not a lot of water got in.

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We eventually made it to our accommodation, which was a bungalow that cost us around £12 a night. Bargain. We were told we were going to have to move bungalow after 2 nights, but that didn’t really bother us until we got to the new bungalow. Actually, the new bungalow was nicer than the old one, but it was closer to the main street. It had been noisy from the bars in the first bungalow, but not unbearable.  It was pretty unbearable in the new one.  I had to wear ear plugs every night and even then it wasn’t great. Oh well… live and learn. If we go back we know exactly where to stay and can advise other people better now.

I’m not going to talk about each day individually on the island, because it was a lovely relaxing blur of chilled outness. Here’s what we did:

We rented a scooter one day and Simon drove us around. Very weird to have Simon drive me around for a change. On our day with the scooter we headed to Bang Bao, which is a village with buildings created on stilts on the end of a pier. Very pretty. We drove to Kai Bae beach, which was beautiful and saw some elephants on the beach. They are used for the tourist industry, with people paying to bathe them in the ocean. We are quite passionately against using elephants in the tourist industry, but will go into that in another blog. Other than watching the elephants, we read and went for swims in the ocean. Our last stop when we had the scooter was to head up to Khlong Phlu waterfall. We had to pay quite a large amount (in Thai terms) as the waterfall was based in a National Park. We walked through the jungle and ended up at the beautiful waterfall. We had a swim and had our feet eaten by the fish in the waterfall.

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We went diving on 2 days. The first day we were hoping to dive the HTMS Chang and then do a local reef dive. There was quite a lot of surge on the first day so we completed 2 reef dives instead. The company we dived with, BB divers, was really good, providing us with a buffet lunch, drinks all day and a lot of laughs. The reef dives were ok, but we didn’t see a huge amount. No turtles or sharks, but plenty of pretty reef fish and barracudas. On the second day we were able to dive the HTMS Chang. It was my first wreck dive and I loved it. The wreck was sunk as an artificial reef in 2011. There were SOOOO many shoals of fish around the wreck. Unfortunately, we didn’t see a whale shark, but there is always more time. The second dive of that day was more like the one on the first day. Enjoyable, but not the best.

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This adorable dive shop cat stole my heart…

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Other days on the island were spent just lying on lonely beach, reading our books, sun bathing and swimming in the sea. Perfect!!!

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We saw monkeys.

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We drank some beers with some girls we met whilst we were there.

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We ate loads of excellent Thai food at some beautiful restaurants.

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and Tapas

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I would definitely recommend Koh Chang as a holiday destination. It’s an island that isn’t commonly on the backpacking trail so it’s a bit quieter and very pretty. Definitely visit.

Bangkok had us for a little while…

After an 8.5 hour flight to Kuala Lumpur and a 2 hour flight onwards to Bangkok, we arrived! It was after midnight and the line to get through immigration was crazy. As a British citizen we are entitled to a 30 day visa exemption. This just takes quite a bit of time to process by border control. By the time we made it to the luggage carousel it was saying last call on bags… too efficient! We grabbed our bags and proceeded to the phone shop to buy a Thai sim card. I had researched the best one before we got there so it was pretty painless to just purchase the sim card and learn how to check our balance. 20Gb of data and 150 baht calling credit to be used within 30 days for around £28. Not the cheapest, but at least this time we won’t be worrying about using maps and doing research on the move like in New Zealand.

We took a taxi to our accommodation which had been booked since February 2016. We wanted all of our accommodation after flights to be arranged, but low and behold.. a problem occurred. So, it turns out, after a lengthy phone conversation with her manager who spoke better English, that our room had been double booked and the other people got it. Bear in mind it was 1am and we were in a new country. What was going to happen now? Rightly so, the hotel found us another, better, accommodation and they walked us over there apologising repeatedly about the whole ordeal. Finally we were able to rest our head and get some sleep.

We had a complimentary breakfast at our new accommodation which was brilliant, so after a lovely lie in we enjoyed that. Our main job of the day was to start booking our onward travel firstly to Koh Chang, back to Bangkok and then up to Chiang Mai. The next drama then occurred. Even though normally you would only need to book the overnight train to Chiang Mai 3ish days in advanced, all the trains on the day we wanted to travel were booked up. Something about a long weekend. Eventually this very helpful tour operator lady managed to find us a train and we haggled a very good deal out of her. 4 x 6 hour coach, 4 x 45 min ferry, 2 x 14 overnight train = £75. I don’t know if we’d be able to get to Bristol from Redruth one way for that. Amazing!!

With all of our admin completed it was time to explore the city. We were 1 street over from Khaosan Road which is notorious as being the backpacker central of Bangkok. We decided to have a walk down the road and soak up the atmosphere. During the day there is a great atmosphere, but in the evening it is unbelievable. As we found out later. Khaosan Road is full of vendors selling all sorts of clothes, souvenirs and food items, there are tuk tuks everywhere, mopeds everywhere and people from all over the World. We really enjoyed it. After this we decided to hunt down some food and enjoyed a thai red and thai green curry between us. Beautiful and super cheap. There is a road called Rambutturi just West of Khaosan and we loved this street just as much. The whole area was brilliant really.

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We headed to the river ferry pier (Phra Arthit) and paid a grand total of 28 baht (65p) for both of us to travel for about 45 minutes down to Saphan Taksin pier where we would be able to connect to the sky train to get where we were going. The river ferry boats are an experience in themselves. Every time you reach a pier a man climbs off the boats, hooks the boat up,  whistles instructions to the skipper, has the passengers off and on, and leaves the pier all within about 45 seconds. So unbelievably efficient. You are packed on there like sardines though. An interesting experience.

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We made it to our first stop, Jim Thompson’s House. All of the itineraries we had looked at for 3/4 days in Bangkok said it was a must do stop and it really was very interesting. Jim Thompson was an American man who was in the Army during World War 2. He was sent to Asia after World War 2 and fell in love with Thailand. He decided that he would eventually move back, even though his wife didn’t want to go with him (they got divorced). When he made it to Bangkok he built a traditional Thai House, which is what we were lucky enough to be able to look around. The house was absolutely beautiful, as were the gardens. We had a tour guide who showed us some of his possessions as well as what a traditional Thai house is like and why. We later found out that Jim Thompson went missing a few days after his 61st birthday, whilst holidaying in Malaysia. To this day, they don’t know what happened to him, but he did sort his will out a few days previously. Jim Thompson played a massive role in getting Thai silk to the USA by showing the fabrics to designers and getting the fabrics into Vogue magazine. His silk factory is still producing now.

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After Jim Thompson’s House we went to the MBK centre which is a massive shopping complex which spans over 7 floors. There are traditional stores, but the majority of the vendors are in stall like structures. It was really interesting to walk around and we had a 40p Dunkin donut each. Yummy!! We weren’t very hungry from our meal earlier so grabbed some spring rolls and a bottle of Chang each from Khaosan Road on the way home and watched some movies in the room (we had 3 channels of movies to choose from – luxury).

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The next day was Temple day. Nothing could have prepared for the chaos that we saw on this day. Luckily, we didn’t have to travel as far on the river ferry today to get to our first stop – The Grand Palace. The Grand Palace was once the official resident of the Thai King, the Royal Court and the administrative seat of government. Even though this now isn’t the case, it is known as the spiritual heart of Thailand. The whole place is pretty confusing to negotiate, with loads of random buildings everywhere. Eventually though we made it through about 3 security checks, paid our 500 baht each (pretty expensive) and made it into the main event.

Some of the main sights are Wat Phra Kaew, which is home to the 14th century emerald buddha. This temple is considered to be the most important Buddhist Temple in Thailand. Surrounding the main temple are lots of beautiful buildings which we enjoyed looking at as we walked around. The Grand Palace was absolutely packed when we visited and as the country is still in mourning for the Thai King there were a lot of Thai people paying their respects whilst we were there. We later spoke to a taxi driver who told us that most of the countries residents will make the journey to The Grand Palace during the year of mourning.

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We also saw the throne halls and royal residences (from the outside) which are also very impressive buildings, but of a far more European style.

After The Grand Palace we walked to Wat Pho which is another Buddhist Temple Complex which houses the Reclining Buddha. I honestly had not expected the reclining Buddha to be slow large (150 foot in length)! It was unbelievably amazing to see and both of our highlight of the day.The entire Wat Pho complex is beautiful and we spent some time looking at the Buddhist statues, Chinese statues and the beautiful pillars.

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It was time to stop for some food and Simon chose a lovely little cafe where we were able to enjoy some more delicious Thai food. There are so many beautiful dishes that we are yet to see typically in the UK so I really do encourage you to go out of your way to try some of these.

We had one more stop, which was to Wat Arun (Temple of the Dawn). We had to hop on the river ferry to get to the other side, but it was worth it. This temple had a completely different feel to it and the mosaic architecture on the buildings was just amazing. Unfortunately, the main pillar had scaffolding all over it so it wasn’t as impressive as we would have hoped, but we’re still really glad we looked around.

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We had decided earlier that we were going to head out to Khaosan Road for dinner the next night and have a few drinks. It was time to crack open our last bottle of red wine from Hunter Valley so we enjoyed a few drinks before heading out. We found a lovely little cafe where we were able to sit on the street and watch the people go by. There was also a man playing lots of Western songs on his guitar. He was really good. We ordered some large Changs and ordered our food. I think this is the most appropriate time to talk about Chang. Chang is a very traditional Thai beer that is super cheap. Having a small one in the room the night before, we both really enjoyed it. It’s light and reminded us a little of corona without the lime, which is just what we wanted. Now, the bad side of Chang. We have heard that Chang isn’t regulated that well. Meaning, even though the bottle says 5.2%, some Chang’s have been recorded as having up to 12% alcohol content. When you are drinking large bottles (620ml) you can see where this will end up. We ended up having 3 large bottles each and had a good little boogie in our seats at other bar later on (check out the videos on fb). We had a great night, but I was a little dizzy and had a bit of a headache the next morning. I will be limiting myself to 2 large Changs from now on. We really enjoyed walking up and down Khaosan Road and enjoying the atmosphere of the place. It comes alive at night! I really can’t explain the feeling of being there, but as I said we loved it.

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The next morning was a write off. We went down to breakfast and then went back to bed for a bit. haha! Silly Chang. I have to say I was expecting a full blown hangover from the way I felt when I went to bed, but I was just tired and had a little headache. Eventually though, we emerged and headed out again. There wasn’t much else that we wanted to do in Bangkok so we headed back to the MBK shopping centre. We were enjoying just experiencing the buzz of the city rather than ‘doing’ too much, so this suited us well. Simon needed a haircut (£4 – wash, cut, wash, blowdry and style), we went to pizza hut (we had lasted long enough on Thai food) and we bought some bits that we needed, including a go pro stick. After this we headed to Hard Rock Cafe for our obligatory cocktail so that we could get the glass. Yummy!

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We headed back the same way we got there, using Uber. We’re quite new to Uber, but it works brilliantly, often being far cheaper than the taxi drivers who will try to not use the meter and charge you too much. We met a lovely guy on our journey back to the hotel. He wanted to practice his English and we learnt that he didn’t really like it much in Bangkok. Too loud, too smelly, too polluted. He told us he would like to travel to ‘English’ in a few years to practice his English and to touch snow. We may have told him that that was pretty unlikely. He was so sweet and hearing about his family was so lovely. His family was from an Eastern province where there are lots of buffalo. He had a buffalo teddy in his car so we took a photo with it… obviously.

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The next day we were leaving really early to start our journey to Koh Chang, for some island living, so we grabbed some street pad thai and got an early night. No more Changs for us for a few days.

Back to Australia for 1 week

After our time in New Zealand had come to an end, we had one week back in Australia. We were very sad to be leaving New Zealand as we loved it even more than we expected to, but were very excited for the 3 main reasons to go back to the Sydney area 1) we were going to be meeting up with some family in Newcastle 2) we were going to meet up with some friends we met on the East Coast at Magnetic Island and 3) it was NYE in Sydney yay!! All of these events meant that we had a very busy week, which left us pretty exhausted!

Our trip back to Sydney did not start very smoothly. It’s a pretty long story, but we had some issues cancelling our air b and b booking for the first 2 days so that we could go and stay in Newcastle, even though she claimed a flexible cancellation policy. We weren’t happy about it, but decided to keep the booking for the whole week. I was very glad we did as we ended up needing to use it on the first night. On the morning of our flight from Christchurch to Sydney I did the sensible thing and checked our flight on the departures board. guess what? Our flight didn’t exist. I checked it on Emirate’s website… it didn’t exist. I started to get a little worried and we decided the best thing to do would be to go straight to the airport to get it sorted. When we got there the woman at the Emirates desk told us that the flight hadn’t existed since October and we had been put on a flight 4 hours later! Great! It would have been nice if someone had told us.

We waited in the airport and tried to rearrange our plans in Sydney. We were originally being picked up by Dave and Jackie to head up to Sydney, but we would be arriving too late now, so we contacted our air b and b lady and told her we would be using our room from that night. Unfortunately, the room hadn’t been cleaned, but we were happy to dispose of the rubbish and change the bedding. All a bit of a nightmare, but actually it worked out well. The flight over was amazing. It was on the new double decker airbus. There was inflight wifi, the largest selection of entertainment we’d ever seen, loads of room, silver service dinner (in economy) and just an all round good flight. It was such a shame it was only a 3 hour flight this time and also a massive shame that we were in economy. 1st and business class had access to a spa and a bar. Posh!

The next day we jumped on a train from Sydney to Newcastle where we were met by lots of Simon’s family (Dave, Jackie, Auntie Jill and Colin). We had a lovely day catching up with everyone and we were taken to some amazing spots. We went on the memorial ANZAC walk which gave stunning panoramic views of the coast, we were driven along a beautiful sandy beach, we walked around Nelson Bay, which was beautiful and had a very tasty lunch at the surf club. It was a really good day.

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We headed back to Dave and Jackie’s house and met their daughter Rachael and had a lovely BBQ and quite a few drinks. Some of the highlights of the evening included holding a 3 day old lamb and drinking Dave’s very tasty honey mead. Yummy!!!

The next day we were lucky enough that Dave showed us his bee hives. We both dressed up in full bee keeping gear and went out to learn how to keep bees. The whole experience was amazing and made us even more likely to keep bees in the future. The morning also involved lots of animals, including some baby ducklings. Maybe we should get a farm? Just a thought.

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After this we headed off to Hunter Valley to go to some of the vineyards. Simon and I are now wine connoisseurs as we have been to so many vineyards! Both of the ones we visited in the Hunter Valley were brilliant and we ended up coming home with  5 bottles! Please don’t ask me how this happened, but it did! A bit of a spoiler alert, we only managed to get through 4 before we left Australia and drank the 5th in Bangkok! We had a lovely lunch at an Irish Pub and prepared to say goodbye to everyone. It was a really lovely 28 hours or so, nowhere near long enough, but hopefully we’ll have the opportunity to see everyone again soon. We drank a lot of wine and didn’t get any photos. Whoops.

The next day we had a lie in. The 3 days previous had worn us out and despite only a 2 hour time difference,  we were feeling it. We then headed down to the opera house to meet up with Sophie and Jenny who we had met on Magnetic Island. Before they got there we got to have some up close views of the opera house which was brilliant. I never realised that it was made of 2 different coloured tiles and the opera house itself is in lots of different pieces (5, I think). It was very busy as people were starting to congregate for New Years and they were putting up all the staging, but it was great to see it up close and personal nonetheless.

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It was great to meet back up with Jenny and Sophie and we spent the afternoon catching up, drinking wine in the botanical garden and shouting good things at our other friend Sophie as she drove the little red train around the botanical gardens (it’s her job). After this Sophie was hungry and we found a little bar in the CBD and drank more wine. Great!!

Simon and I had plans that evening to go to Hard Rock (remember I didn’t happen last time because of the dreaded stomach bug). We were all having such a good time we changed our booking so that 5 of us (George as well now) could go together. We had lots of tasty food, good laughs and just great times. Simon got his Sydney glass which had been 9 years in the making (he couldn’t find Hard Rock the last time he was in Sydney).

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The evening wasn’t quite over yet as we all managed to get together as a group at Sophie’s house and played cards against humanity. All in all, a brilliant day!!!

The next day, Simon and I needed some beach time so we took the ferry over to Manly. I hadn’t thought much about what to expect from Manly but was really pleasantly surprised. The area was buzzing with people, there were lots of places to eat and have a drink, and of course the beach was just perfect! We met Sophie there and had a little bit of a paddle. Nothing too drastic as the water was chilly, but bearable.

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Now, it was time for the main event. It was New Years Eve in Sydney. We were going to spend the evening on a boat cruising around the harbour, under the bridge and watching the 9pm and 12am fireworks. Yay!! It was bring your own food so we got a nice picnic spread together and set off to our boat.

We met 2 lovely people onboard, drank lots of wine, watched breath taking fireworks and danced to some seriously cheesy music. It was great!! The fireworks were better than we expected them to be and the cruise despite being one of the cheaper options was just perfect for us. Thank you so much Mom and Dad for this gift. It was so memorable and we are very grateful.

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We didn’t make it back to our air b and b until 2am the next day, and we were a little fuzzy when we woke up. It was New Years Day! Of course we were. We didn’t have a whole lot planned for the day as everything was going to be closed anyway so we walked down a Pitt Street Mall, had a coffee, bought toiletries and bits for Asia and went back to our room and rented Pete’s Dragon! ! What a great movie!  We loved it. I cried. But was disappointed they didn’t have the classic Candle on the Water song in it.

The next day was our last full day in Australia and we had one massive tourist spot to tick off our list. The Blue Mountains. Just like Hard Rock. We didn’t make it there last time we were in Sydney and we HAD to go. We had looked at tours last time we were in Sydney, but decided we would go it alone to save money.

We grabbed an early train from central station to Katoomba. This took around 2 hours 15 minutes. The train ride was fine, just a little long. Once we got there we were bombarded by bus companies offering hop on hop off services. Again, we were going it alone so we walked around 20 minutes down to Echo Point where the 3 sisters was, as well as the tourist information centre.  Once in the tourist information centre we bought a walking map for a couple of dollars and started exploring.

Our route was:

Echo Point lookout

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Prince Henry Cliff walk to Honeymoon bridge

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The Giant Staircase (900 steps straight down or up if you fancy the challenge)

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Then circled back through the jungle to Scenic World.

The whole walk took us about 2 hours and wasn’t strenuous at all. We saw lots of people going up the Giant Staircase and we were so glad we didn’t do that.

Once at Scenic World we decided we were going to take the world’s steepest passenger train back up to the top. It was a really fun ride. They let you change the incline of your seat to make it more thrilling. We went for cliff hanger mode. We decided when we got to the top to spend a little bit more money to go on the cable car and the sky train as well. We’re glad we did as the views from both were great.

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So we spent about an hour going up and down on all the fun rides and walking around the jungle boardwalk they had at the bottom.  The site used to be used for mining so they have some old mine shafts and equipment you can look at too.

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We made one more stop before walking back to the train station. Katoomba falls. This was quite possibly the most disappointing waterfall we had seen. .. maybe in forever. Not good!!! And very touristy.

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With that our Blue Mountains trip was over. We had spent a fraction of the cost of an organised tour and done more than we could have with them. Yippee. That evening we went to see Rogue One. Simon was very happy and I enjoyed it too. A great way to end our Australian adventure.  Onwards to Bangkok!!!!

Fortunate vs Lucky

I’ve been wanting to write a small bit about this for a long time. Obviously, not everyone is in a position to travel the way we are, but I still do not feel as if we are ‘lucky’.

A lot of people say to us ‘Oh wow, you’re so lucky to be travelling’. ‘You did what?! That’s so lucky’ etc. and to be honest… I’m getting a bit fed up of it. Let me explain why.

Simon and I have worked very hard to be in a position that has got us to where we are today. We saved our money for at least 2.5 years to be able to have enough to travel for this 7 months period. Simon spent a huge amount of time away from home, working 7 days a week and very long days. I was a teacher… enough said. We worked our butts off for a long time. This is why I see as being FORTUNATE instead of lucky.

We are fortunate because we are in a position that allows us to travel. Our upbringing and our previous experiences have made us able to do what we are doing. I do not think this is luck. We have not won the lottery. We have not received a lump sum of money. We have saved every penny and received some from our wedding guests, which we are very grateful for.

Luck is something that happens to you, whereas fortune is something you create yourself. We are very fortunate! Very very fortunate, but we are NOT lucky!

That’s all I’m going to say…

Akaroa and Christmas in Christchurch

We had quite a drive the next day from Lake Tekapo to Akaroa and the weather was awful. It kept pouring then stopping, then pouring then stopping… not fun. We were heading to Akaroa for one reason only, to see if we could find a Hector’s dolphin. The Hector’s dolphin is the World’s smallest (4ft) and rarest dolphin, with there predicted to only be 7000 left in the World, which is very sad.

Akaroa wasn’t on our radar at all until my friend Alex mentioned it to us after the road between Christchurch and Kaikoura was destroyed during the Earthquake. We had been looking forward to visiting Kaikoura for a long time as it’s seen as the marine animal centre of New Zealand. Unfortunately, this wasn’t possible so we have another reason to return, not like we need another.

As we approached Akaroa we realised how pretty the area was. Akaroa sits on the Banks Peninsula just South of Christchurch and has a very French feel to it. Many of the roads are named in French and there are patisseries and bolangeries everywhere. We learnt later that this is because this was the home of French settlement in New Zealand and many of the residents now are descendants of their French ancestors. You can hear French being spoken often and French tourists visit here in the hundreds.

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We had originally planned to hire kayaks to go out and explore the area for Hector’s dolphins, but the weather wasn’t really on our side so we splurged a little and boat a ticket on a 3 hour boat ride. This was the best decision we made! When we got on the boat we had a glass of wine each, they also served us a homemade cookie whilst on board, we had the best commentary and saw loads of marine animals. There was a dog on board (I can’t remember his name) who would stand near to where he heard the dolphins. Most of the time he was spot on.

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Maori village on the banks.

We saw about 12 Hector’s dolphins during our tour as well as some white flippered penguins and one yellow eyed penguins. We also saw lots of Southern Fur Seals and cormorants. It was all in all a brilliant trip. The company was Akaora dolphins and it’s a little family run company.

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Akaroa was brilliant and I definitely would spend more time on the Banks Peninsula when we come back to New Zealand. Don’t overlook it.

The next morning we drove to Christchurch, checked in to our accommodation and drove to drop Maverick back at the spaceships depot 😦 This was super sad. We had become very attached to Maverick over the 6.5 weeks that we’d had him. I have to be honest though, we were looking forward to a proper bed and a bathroom all to ourselves.

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We didn’t do much for the rest of the day as we had a lovely little apartment so we watched some tv and did some research on the internet. Boring stuff really.

I had read about a Christmas Carol concert that was happening in Victoria Square (it was Christmas eve) so we headed there to watch that and it was amazing. On the way we couldn’t believe the devastation of Christchurch after the 2011 earthquakes (more on this later), so it was lovely to see the community of Christchurch coming together to celebrate Christmas.

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The next day was Christmas morning and we had a lovely lie in, cooked a fry up and watched lots of Christmas movies. Nothing was really open on Christmas day so we decided to relax and not do a lot (very much needed). Before our Christmas dinner we went for a walk up to the 185 chairs memorial and to the cardboard cathedral. The earthquake in 2011 took 185 lives which included many Japanese over on a learn English program. This memorial uses one chair to represent each life that was lost and was very moving. We both spent some time talking about what kind of chair would represent ourselves and it was a lovely way to think about the people that were lost.

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The main cathedral was severely damaged in the 2011 earthquakes and even more damaged in the aftershocks that have followed. After 5 years there has been no decision made about is fate with some people wanting it to be knocked down and rebuilt and others saying its an iconic building we need to restore it. As the cathedral was not useable they built a temporary cardboard cathedral a little bit further away which is made of many cardboard tubes. The windows are made of blown up images of the stain glass that was destroyed on the original church, which was a lovely touch. It’s a beautiful peace of architecture and I really hope they keep it after the original cathedral is rebuilt/restored.

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We headed back to our apartment after a loop around the river Avon. The apartment had a communal kitchen we could use and made our Christmas dinner. Chicken, carrots, broccoli, roast potatoes and Yorkshire puddings. I have invented the best new dish in the world – potato in the hole. As we didn’t have many pans I decided to cook the roast potatoes and when they were nearly done I surrounded them in Yorkshire pudding batter. The result was mindblowing if I don’t say so myself. I will be doing this far more often.

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The rest of the day was for relaxing so we could get up early the next day for our free walking tour. You’re probably getting bored of me telling you about walking tours, but I honestly believe they are the best way to see a city. I was desperate to learn more about the earthquakes and felt that this would be the best way to go about it.

Our tour guide was a local, born and bred in Christchurch would have lived through the earthquake. He was a very animated fellow and a little scripted, but we’ll let him off. We walked all around the town, seeing the new buildings, the derelict buildings, the remaining heritage spots, the reStart mall and the river Avon.

Here are some examples of the derelict buildings we saw on our way around the town.

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Christchurch has been referred to as the most British city outside of Britain and I completely see why. It’s just got the same feel about it. The community has obviously pulled together during a difficult time and new developments like the reStart mall prove how hard the city has been working to recover. The reStart mall is a mall made completely out of shipping containers. When the main shopping centre was destroyed this mall provided the community with the facilities they needed at short notice and cheaply. There is a bank, post office, restaurants and cafes all in the mall. There are rumours going around that the mall will be destroyed when the city is restored. I really hope not. These new developments are now so linked with Christchurch’s history that I hope they remain.

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Regent street was the most well preserved street we saw during our time in Christchurch and it made us realise what this city may have been like in the past.

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For the rest of the day we explored the Canterbury museum which was really brilliant. They had 2 amazing displays that we spent a lot of time in. The Air New Zealand exhibit and the Antarctica exhibit. In the Air New Zealand exhibit we got to experience virtual reality for the first time which was brilliant. They showed us what they hoped the future of air travel may be like with people being able to choose what they ‘see’ during the flight.

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We met up with a friend of mine, Alex, from Penrice and had a lovely chat, coffee and Simon even got to have some sliders sent to him through a pneumatic post system. Very cool. It was great to catch up with Alex and hear about her life in New Zealand.

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And with that our time in New Zealand was over. It had been wonderful. More than wonderful… MIND BLOWING. This country is amazing and everyone needs to visit at least once. We will be back, I have no doubt. I would love to see Christchurch in the future when it has recovered from all of the devastation. What I took from our time there was that the community spirit in that city is solid and caring. It won’t be long until Christchurch is prospering yet again.

Aoraki and Lake Tekapo

After Queenstown we were hoping to finally see Mount Cook (Aoraki). New Zealand is strange, for lots of reasons, but this time I’m talking about the roads. As we drove down the West Coast we were very close to Mount Cook, but to get to Mount Cook you have to access from the East Coast. Therefore, we had been down past Franz Josef, through the Haast Pass, down to Wanaka, Te Anau, back to Queenstown and heading North before we were on the other side of the Southern Alps. So, why had we not seen Mount Cook before. There were a few reasons, but mainly it came down to the weather. Clouds usually covered the peak of Mount Cook and it also made it very hard to distinguish amongst the other mountains. We may have seen it before and not even realised. Mount Cook is the tallest mountain in New Zealand standing at 3764m.

We left from Queenstown and drove towards Mount Cook Village, about 4.5 hours away. We made 2 stops on the way, the first being at Omarama Clay Cliffs. We were pleasantly surprised by the Clay Cliffs, which made you feel like you were in a giant sand castle.

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Our second stop was at Lake Pukaki where the water is so blue and gorgeous. It’s the same as some of the other water we’ve seen where the blue colour is created by the glacier waters and rock flower which sink to the bottom. The weather was starting to change so we still couldn’t see Mount Cook, but we were still hopeful.

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When we got to our department of conservation campsite the weather got even worse. The Hooker Valley walk that we had planned to do was going to have to wait. See that grey area on the left middle of the picture above… there’s where we were. Maverick was blown around like crazy all night and the rain on the car made such loud noises. Somehow though, we slept.

The next morning we woke to complete the Hooker Valley walk. The walk was going to take us over 3 suspension bridges right up to the glacial lake in front of Mount Cook. The lake still has icebergs in it even in the Summer. An amazing site. The weather was OK on the way out, but the sky cleared for us on the way back and we finally got to see the elusive Mount Cook in all it’s glory. The walk took around 2 hours and was brilliant.

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After the Hunter Valley Walk we had one more walk to do in the area before heading to Lake Tekapo, the Tasman Glacier Walk. The walk didn’t take us long at all, but was completely up hill. Once at the top we had some amazing views of the Tasman Glacier, which is retreating at a scarily fast rate, and of the blue lakes (which are actually green). It was a very peaceful spot.

 

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We drove back along Lake Pukaki as we headed to Lake Tekapo. The blue in the lake was even more impressive than the day before (honestly, the pictures don’t do it justice).

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That night in Tekapo we headed up to Mount John Observatory (the largest in New Zealand) for a tour of the facilities and to see the sunset over the Southern Alps. Unfortunately, it didn’t quite get dark enough for us to see many stars while we were up there, but we did see Sirius and Venus through the telescopes.

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The next day we were driving to Akaroa in hunt of the smallest and rarest dolphin. Did we see them? Tune in next time!

Queenstown – Our favourite place so far

When you think of fun and adventure in New Zealand, your mind should think Queenstown and rightly so. It’s amazing. We absolutely loved it here. It’s our new favourite place. The whole town is surrounded by breathtaking scenery, there is so much to do in and around the town and the whole place is just so friendly. It was great!!

We drove into Queenstown from Te Anau so that we were ready to look around and enjoy from lunch time on our first day. The weather was brilliant so we decided to grab a dominos pizza deal, eat our pizza overlooking Lake Wakatipu and then have a game of frisbee golf. Yes, you read that correctly, frisbee golf. I’ve seen a frisbee golf course before at Mount Edgcumbe, but we’d both never had a go before. We hired our frisbees from a local sporting goods shop and headed to Queenstown Gardens to see what it was like.

The whole course was 18 holes, but the first couple of holes were placed next to a steep hill down to the lake. A couple of times our frisbees went rolling down towards the hill lake and we thought we’d lost them, but luckily not. I decided relatively soon that I wasn’t very good at frisbee golf. I had the odd hole where it went ok and I hit par, but in general I couldn’t get the distance and the course was full of trees. It was great fun and Simon was crowned victorious at the end. Well done 🙂

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After our game of frisbee golf we were headed to a small town just outside of Queenstown called Arrowtown. We were going to stay there for the night, not just because of our visit to the town, but also because it was cheaper to stay in Arrowtown that Queenstown. Arrowtown is a typical gold mining town, which is made up of lots of old heritage buildings. It has a really lovely Western feel to it and during our time here we walked along the Arrow river, around the Chinese settlement (there were a lot of Chinese people that came over to work in the gold mines) and through the actual town. We enjoyed a drink at one of the cafes and just relaxed which was lovely.

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The next day we were heading to Arthurs Point so that we could ride the Shotover Jet. We have heard that there are 3 things you have to do whilst in Queenstown: Ride the Shotover Jet, Eat a Fergburger and Do a bungy jump (more on these later). In 2014 Prince William and Kate had a ride on the Shotover, so if it’s good enough for them, it’s good enough for us too. The ride was going to be about 25 minutes and the jet boat was going to take us along the Shotover river, taking us very close to the canyon walls, spinning us 360 degrees and zooming us through a couple of inches of water. The whole experience was brilliant and really exciting. We came off pretty wet, but was so glad we’d done it.

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After this we headed back over to Queenstown. Our holiday park was really kind in letting us park the car there for the day free of charge so that we could get on with exploring before checking in. We were going to go on the free walking tour at 10am to get some insider info on the town. Our tour guide was called Jordan and he was full of knowledge about the history of the town and the different stages it has gone through. It was really interesting to learn that the town was initially colonised by a Maori tribe, then 2 men European men, then the city boomed for the gold rush and now is going through a tourist trade boom. There are 20,000 people who are permanent residents of Queenstown and 10,000 people working there on working visas from around the world. We definitely saw the appeal of Queenstown and could hear British accents everywhere we turned.

Our walking tour took us around the town and allowed us to have a cookie sample at Cookie Time and a Beer sample at a locals pub. We got to see the famous Earnslaw steamer boat leaving for its tour and learnt about the Maori origin story of Lake Wakatipu.

“At the heart of the legend is Manata, the beautiful daughter of a local Maori chief, who was forbidden to marry Matakauri, the man she loved.One night, Manata was kidnapped by a fierce giant from the mountains named Matau. The chief was so distraught about his daughter that he promised Manata’s hand in marriage to the man from the tribe who could rescue her. Matakauri snuck into Matau’s lair under cover of darkness and rescued Manata, and the two were happily married at last.But Matakauri wanted to be sure that Matau would never threaten his wife or tribe again, so he once again stole away into the mountains. He found Matau asleep, curled up on his giant side. Matakauri set fire to him, burning him where he lay. The fire burned a deep gouge into the earth and caused the ice and snow on the surrounding mountains to melt — forming Lake Wakatipu. The name translates to “Hollow of the Giant.”” Taken from http://www.dangerous-business.com/2011/03/the-maori-legend-of-lake-wakatipu/

Having lived in a house called Wakatipu for the first 18 years of my life it was really interesting to hear this story about this beautiful lake. In fact, Lake Wakatipu was formed from a glacier around 15,000 years previously. I prefer the Maori story.

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After the walking tour Simon was booked in to have a go on an activity called Hydro Attack. Unfortunately, this was cancelled due to high winds. Don’t worry though, we’ll come back to this. Instead we decided to do the Queenstown Hill walk up to the Basket of Dreams and a wonderful view of the town. Before this though, I needed to try a deep fried Kiwi that our walking tour guide told me about. It was very tasty, but super hot inside. Back tot the walk though. I’m not going to lie… this walk was hard. I don’t think I would normally struggle this much on this walk, but for some reason I was having a hard time and developed a pretty bad headache about half way up. We took it slow and made it to the top. This was my favourite viewpoint of the whole trip so far. The whole area is just breathtaking and the town had already stolen our hearts. Reluctantly we headed back down and back to the our holiday park to get checked in.

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Tonight was the night that we were going to hit the second must do on the Queenstown bucket list. Fergburger. I am not a massive burger eater, but Simon absolutely loves them. I ordered a Tropical Swine and Simon a Big Stuff. The queue at Ferburger can get massive at all times of the day (the store is open from 8.30am to 5am the next day – crazy) and we’d learnt a trick to phone your order in and then collect from the hut. It worked a treat and we had our burgers in 15 minutes compared to the usual hour plus wait. We walked down to the waterfront and tucked in. We both agreed that these were the best burgers we’d ever had in our lives. They were just amazing! Jucy, tasty and huge!! I think we’d move to Queenstown just for the Fergburgers.

 

2016-12-18-19-02-332016-12-18-19-05-27As we had well and truly stuffed ourselves we headed back to Queenstown Gardens and went for a walk to digest. From here we had some great views over to Deer Park Heights which is where they filmed some scenes from Wolverine and also the large Orc fight when the Rohan people were leaving Helms Deep in the LoTR. There was live music playing in some of the bars and the atmosphere in town was great. Such a lovely day.

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The next day I turned 28 years old and I was so happy to be spending it in this town. I’m sure you’re all getting fed up of me saying how much we like places, but honestly I truly mean it about this place. There are only 3 other places I would have liked to have been as much and that was Magnetic Island, Fraser Island or Noosa in Australia. Queenstown is still my favourite though. We woke up and our first activity of the day was a fry up. I’ve been going on about how we probably wont get fry ups easily in S.E. Asia so we found ourselves a fry up before heading up Bobs Peak on the gondala for some luging.

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Andy, Jonny and Simon will tell you that my previous experience of luging was somewhat disastrous. I ended up zooming off a mountain into a pile of snow about 1 foot away from a tree whilst in France skiing a few years back. Luckily, this didn’t happen again. This time there was no snow, just some go kart like carts and 2 pretty awesome tracks. We had another bookme deal which included our gondala ride and also 7 runs down the luge. The gondala ride was brilliant and gave us good views back over the lake. I was pretty eager when we got to the top though and wanted to get straight on with luging.

We had to prove that we could luge to start with and had a practice with one of the instructors. We passed with flying colours and went down the blue track first (easier). Over the course of our next 7 runs we did a mix of the blue and red runs (mainly red which was a bit faster and bendier). They were both brilliant and we had a lot of fun laughing and enjoying ourselves. After luging we enjoyed the views at the top of Bobs Peak and watched a few people jump of the ledge bungy.

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We headed back down Bobs Peak and back into town. We had a few hours before our next activity so we went back to the locals pub we had the beer tasting the day before and enjoyed a cocktail in a teapot. Yummy! The sun was shining and the day was just perfect. After this we were heading to the Absolute Zero Ice Bar. We had managed to get a deal on entry and a cocktail each, but I have to admit I didn’t have high expectations for the whole experience. Neither of us had ever been in an ice bar so were pleasantly surprised by the whole experience. We were bundled up in a warm coat and gloves and headed in to a room filled with beautiful ice sculptors, an ice sleigh, a hockey table made of ice and an ice fireplace. The whole bar was made of ice, our glasses were made of ice and there was a photobooth. It was sooooo cool!

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Our next stop was dinner on the lake at the Bath house. The views were just perfect, the food even better (beef for me and venison for Simon). This day just kept getting better and better. But, then it just went above and beyond. Finally it was time for my birthday present from Simon. We were going to spend an hour in a private hot pool at Onsen hot pools over looking the Shotover River. We had sparkling wine, ice cream and an incense burner. Bliss!! Especially as we got to watch the sunset over the mountains. We both came away so relaxed and had a lovely nights sleep that night.

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We had one more day in Queenstown and this was the day that I’d been worrying about for days. It was time for Simon to do the Nevis Bungy. He would be throwing himself off a suspended platform and falling for 134m. Lucky me, I got the fun of watching from the platform. He was super chilled out about it all the whole time and loved it. He did it twice!!!! Now, lets just touch upon why I didn’t do it. I’ve never really had a desire to do a bungy jump. It’s the actually having to throw yourself off a platform with the ground very close thing that’s the issue. Having been up on the platform with all the people jumping I do now feel as though if I ever got the desire to I probably could do it. The guys at the top were so good at getting one guy to jump who was nervous and everyone absolutely loved their experience. Who knows. Maybe I’ll have a go in the future if I ever get the urge. Simon is now addicted and will probably be bungy jumping all over the place so lots more for me to worry about haha.

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He was buzzing for the whole day and still had his Hydro Attack experience to go. Hydro Attack is really hard to explain, but it’s effectively a robotic submersible shark that you sit in that dives under and jumps out of the water. I couldn’t get good photos of Simon doing much as they go quite far out into the lake, but he had a great time and definitely would do it again.

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Our fridge battery was pretty flat so it was back to the car to charge it up. We decided to drive along the Northern tip of Lake Wakatipu to Glenorchy. It was our favourite charge our battery drive to date and gave us some amazing fews of the Southern Alps and other snow capped mountains. There isn’t much in Glenorchy itself, but we had a walk along the pier and had a look at the submerged trees (a bit like Wanaka).

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On the way back we realised that it was our last night in Queenstown and we had to have another Fergburger. We both ordered exactly the same and enjoyed it just as much. They really are AMAZING.

Queenstown was like a little holiday within a holiday for us. We didn’t worry so much about money here as we already knew we would spend a lot during our visit. We wished we could have spent more time here, but knew that our bank would not have allowed it. There are so many activities, walks, bike rides and places to visit that we didn’t even touch upon and we seriously discussed the prospect of spending more time here in the future. It’s so understandable why people choose to base themselves here during a working visa to New Zealand. There is a massive appeal to being able to save money and do all of these amazing activities on your days off! Queenstown is a skiing and snowboarding centre in the Winter months and we would love to see what its like during that period too. Who knows when that will be. It could be next year or in 30 years time but, I can definitely say that we’re not closing the book on Queenstown yet.

Te Anau and Milford Sound

After our lunch in Wanaka we started our long drive down to Te Anau. We passed through Queenstown on our way and along the Eastern coast of Lake Wakatipu past the Remarkables. It was amazing to have a taster of what was to come during our time in Queenstown. The weather was a little bit unpredictable so we didn’t stop too many times to take photos, but enjoyed seeing the new snow on the tops of the mountain peaks on the way.

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We made it to Te Anau with just enough time to cook for the evening, but that was ok as we were really only there for one reason, Milford Sound. Our tour was picking us up in the morning and taking us through beautiful Fiordland, making many stops on the way, before we would eventually reach Milford Sound.

Our tour guide Reece, from the company Southern Discoveries, was amazing from the start. Apparently, he had been asking every couple who got on board if they were the couple on Honeymoon. He was really happy when he finally found us. I had been putting on most of our bookings that we were on honeymoon, but this was the first time that it was acknowledged. He gave us a congratulatory postcard from the company and a box of chocolates which we thought was super kind of them.

Throughout the whole trip, Reece told us really interesting facts about the area and its history. We learnt that Lake Te Anau is the second largest lake in New Zealand after Lake Taupo on the North island. He told us about the local farming that takes place, as well as all about the Fiordland National Park, how the road was built, what happens during snow storms and about the Manuka tree etc. Our first few stops were to look at the beautiful scenery and we were blessed with an amazing rainbow over looking the mountains. You can tell why this area was used a lot for the scenic shots of Lord of the Rings. It’s just stunning.

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We carried along the road and eventually made it to Mirror Lake. This is another spot that claims to produce perfect mirror images of the mountains into the water on a calm day. We had a little bit of disturbance, but as the sign reflection shows. It wasn’t bad at all.

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Soon after Mirror Lake we reached the 45 degree mark which meant we were exactly half way between the equator and the South pole. After this we hit the great divide which is where the rivers start flowing towards the Tasman Sea instead of the Southern Ocean and the Pacific. At this point, the weather gets considerably worse very quickly. Milford Sound is the wettest place in New Zealand, with Franz Josef being the second. Throughout the rest of the trip we experienced exactly what being the wettest place in New Zealand means.

We made a few more stops on our way to see the beautiful scenery and eventually we made it to the summit of the road. At the summit there was snow very nearly down to the ground and we learnt that the day previously there had been a snow warning, meaning all drivers on the road had to carry snow chains and prove they could put them on their cars if they needed to. Luckily, this warning had been lifted and we were able to just admire the snow. There were a lot of greedy Kea birds around. As soon as we stepped off the bus they would be walking around your feet begging for food. We eventually passed through a tunnel, which was really cool in itself and emerged the other side to mountains with endless waterfalls flowing down them. This is the good thing about Milford Sound, no matter what the weather, the views will be breathtaking. A few hours after the rain stops these waterfalls dry up and disappear without a trace. Luckily, i think, for us the rain was still coming pretty strong at this point.

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Our last stop before Milford Sound was the Chasm. The Chasm was a short walk from the carpark through lush forest. You could hear the Chasm before you could see it. Effectively, the Chasm is exactly what its name suggests, a large hole with a huge amount of water flowing through it very quickly. The photos we took do not do the Chasm justice, but it allowed us to fully appreciate the power of water.

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Back on the bus we made our final journey towards Milford Sound. Here we would have about 10 minutes before we would be boarding our boat for our 3 hour journey through the fiord. Milford Sound was incorrectly called a Sound, but the name has stuck. In fact, it’s a fiord because the valley was carved out by a glacier.

We enjoyed a picnic lunch on board and even though we were getting absolutely soaked, we decided to stay outside for the journey so we could fully appreciate the scale of the place. Most of our initial photos look black and white because the weather was so bad, but as you can see, this didn’t stop the views from being impressive. At one point the skipper took the boat underneath a thundering waterfall. We got absolutely soaked and were giggling uncontrollably until we realised just how cold and wet we were. Having spoken to my Mum that night we realised that it had actually been colder in Milford Sound that day than in the UK.

We made it all the way through the fiord and out to the Tasman Sea where the ride got A LOT choppier. Luckily, we didn’t stay out here too long and we headed back in along the other side of the fiord. We saw so many beautiful waterfalls, enormous cliffs and interesting rock formations. It truly is a magical place and if you come, you have to go. We were in two minds about wether to go to Doubtful Sound instead just because it is far less commercialised, but we’re really glad we went with Milford. Doubtful will be on our list next time.

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On the way back the boat stopped at the underwater observatory. Here, you go about 10m under the water and you can see the marine life that is just beneath. Milford Sound experiences a phenomenon called Deep Water Emergence. Many deep water species from the Puysegur Trench in the Tasman Sea come into Milford Sound where there is limited light, therefore making conditions similar to that in the deep. One species that thrives here is black coral. The black coral is the white coral in the photos. Odd I know, but it’s named after the colour of its skeleton. This coral species is normally found at depths of 200 – 1000 m, but thrives in 10 m water in Milford Sound. Very cool to see.

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After the underwater observatory it was time to head back in. Luckily the weather had cleared a bit at this point and we were able to get some photos that didn’t just look black and white. Milford Sound is the kind of place that you have to visit more than once. I came away feeling in awe of the place, but also because it was so impressive, I felt like I needed to see it again to fully absorb it. It would be great to see it on a sunny day as well. Unfortunately we didn’t get great views of Mitre Peak so we will have to come back. Oh the shame!

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On the way back we didn’t stop too may times as we were all a little cold and wet. We made it back in to Te Anau and knew that we had made the right choice with the company we went went. The whole day was great. Reece had told us about a free bird sanctuary that we could visit near our holiday park so we headed there after warming up. Here we got to see the Tekahe, which was believed to have been extinct for many years. Luckily, it was found in the Fiordland Region and now there is a program to incubate the eggs and protect the chicks from predators, just like the program we saw in Franz Josef for the Rowi Kiwi chicks. We also got to see the cousin of the Kea, the Kaka and some other native birds. It was great and completely free.

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The whole day was exhausting so we called it a night. We would need our energy as the next stop was Queenstown.

Things we have learnt whilst travelling…

We have now been on the road for 97 days. It feels far longer, probably because of the sheer number of places we’ve seen and experiences we’ve had. When I think of what I would have achieved at home in 97 days it doesn’t even compare to a smaller fraction of what we’ve done here. So, what have we learnt about travelling and ourselves in this time. This blog is a bit of a follow on from the 1 month blog I wrote previously.

1.Everybody… yes everybody who lives in a house/apartment/bungalow owns too many toiletries. I’m now ashamed to admit that at least 2 boxes in our storage container is full of toiletries. We have been functioning on (liquid or cream based, not including medicines):

Becky – Shampoo, Shower Gel, Toothpaste, Contact Lens solution, Mascara, Suncream, Aftersun, Deodorant

Simon – Shampoo, Shower Gel, Toothpaste, Hair Gel, Deodorant, Suncream, Aftersun

I know we all get given toiletry sets at Christmas and we all own too much moisturiser, but I can tell you now our bathroom is going to be a far different place when we return. The best bit of it all is that we both don’t smell and we both don’t feel any more disgusting than we did before we left. And P.S. Yes I still shave my legs! haha

2. Living in a car is hardwork! As I am typing this Simon is lifting the bed up for the 10th or so time to put something away or get something out from under the bed. We don’t have a huge amount of room, but we are quite liking it. We have a routine in the morning and at night now for getting the car into day or night mode, but it’s still handwork and we are properly under each others toes 90% of the time. Unfortunately, we give Maverick back tomorrow which is also sad :(, but we can’t wait for a normal bed where we can walk around the room with ease.

3. Most people are really friendly. I won’t generalise too much, but in the UK people don’t talk to people they don’t know. We are quite introverted. Since travelling we have had conversations with people in supermarkets, on walks, in kitchens, on tours, at bus stops, on buses, just walking down the street even. I feel that we need to encourage this more in the UK! Let’s all be friends!

4. Planning is over rated, but also sometimes crucial. Having the camper car has meant that we don’t really need to plan much. Every campsite has space for us and we just show up wherever we fancy during the afternoon or evening. We wouldn’t have been able to go to Napier if we hadn’t have been so flexible in our plans and not booked accommodation. On the flip side.. we are finding that activities do need to be  little bit planned, especially if we want the discounted rates on bookme.co.nz. We’ve found a nice balance.

5. Good wifi is hard to come by. We’ve heard this won’t be the case in South East Asia, but we’ve really struggled to find wifi that isn’t limited to a little bit to browse with. We are backing up photos to dropbox as we travel and I need to upload photos for the blog. This is practically impossible at times! Which explains why you sometimes get 2 blogs in one because we are making the most of the good wifi.

6. We are fighting fit! Why? I think this is because we aren’t stressed. Everyone who I worked with at Penrice will know that I suffered from migraines, sore throats, colds, stomach aches and rib pain pretty often. I now know that it was all down to stress. I have felt sea sick once and had 1 headache the entire time we have travelled. Yes, we both suffered from gastro, but that was a rare event. We have been around people who have colds and are coughing and ‘touch wood’ we have caught nothing. An interesting thought ehy?!

7. I love baths. I miss them so much.

8. Simon is actually obsessed with ducks. He is so happy when he sees a duck. I mean, I knew he liked them, but I think it’s progressed.

9. Same same, but different. Jess told me this saying before we left. She said we’d hear it all around S.E Asia, but we also hear it a lot here and I completely understand why. This country is the same as Britain in so many ways, but also so different. Sometimes I forget we’re in NZ and then out of nowhere BOOM a mountain or BOOM a volcano. So definitely, same same, but different.

10. We talk about the future A LOT. Everywhere we go we think, could we live here? Simon has become obsessed with property newspapers. I have to admit it’s a lot of fun looking at some of the houses and seeing if we could afford anything truly special. In some places we could. We could have much more than we do now, but do we want that? So far only one place has screamed to us, leave your life and move abroad, Queenstown. There have definitely been other places in Oz and Nz that we would be very happy though. But no-one panic! We’re not moving abroad. It’s not just about where to live though. we have also talked about jobs and our dreams in terms of careers. So far, we know what we want, we just need to figure out how to achieve it. Progress i would say!! We knew travelling would give some clarity to things.

11. It’s surprising how well you can manage without things. There have been so many times in New Zealand where I’ve wished I had my fleece or a certain pair of shoes. But, they’re not here! Layers have been our saviour and you learn to get by with what you have. We’ve just realised we don’t have any oil for dinner.. no issues, we’ll figure it out. Call us the thrifty Dowells.

12. Money is stupid. Yes, we’ve spent more than we have intended. We will be having some VERY cheap days in S.E Asia to make up for some of our expenditure, but do you know what?! We don’t care. It’s only money and the memories and experiences we are having is worth so much more to us than having that money sat in the bank.