The Valley of the Rocks, Lynton, Lynmouth and Watersmeet

I won’t try to deny it. It’s been a while since I last wrote a blog post. This isn’t because we haven’t been doing anything exciting, it’s because we’ve been doing too many exciting things. In the last few weeks we’ve been to the Cotswold Water Park in Swindon, Flyboarding in Chepstow and had a visit to the aqua park at Retallack in Cornwall. Yesterday we finally found a full empty day to do our second ‘official’ South West explore day and wow what a great day it was.

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We got up pretty early and prepared ourself for the two hour drive to the North coast of Devon. It’s only when you’re going from the South of Devon to the North that you realise how large the county is. We made it there in good time, parked up and very quickly realised how pretty the area is. Our first stop was for a walk to the Valley of the Rocks. The Valley of the Rocks boasts some of the tallest cliffs in the UK and some of the most dramatic scenery. I have to say, it didn’t disappoint. We started our walk from the Lynton Town Hall and climbed up Hollderday Hill. The sun was shining and the scenery was beautiful. The recent rain had left some muddy paths, but that just added to the fun. I have to admit, it felt amazing to be back on the South West Coast path. The North cliffs of Cornwall was always our favourite spot and this area definitely has a similar feel.

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Soon the Valley of the Rocks was in front of us and wow it was stunning! We spent a lot of time just staring in awe at the area, looking across the Bristol Channel to Wales and just soaking it all in. Oh and we had a little bit of a photo shoot.

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We headed downwards into the valley and came across a lovely little spot called Poet’s shelter, which showcased some poetry written by visitors to the area. There were some great ones and some pretty odd ones.

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Next we walked along the path to Castle Rock and started the climb up. I’d read online that this was a pretty steep climb, but don’t let that put you off. It’s not anything dramatic and the views are completely worth it. As you will be able to tell from the photos, it was a pretty windy day. So much so, that at one point, my hair band completely blew out of my hair. We took some photos, Simon had a good old climb (scaring me senseless in the process) and we just took it all in.

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We took the South West Coast Path back to Lynton, which was another beautiful path. Here I got overly excited about finding some wild goats grazing on the hills. Cue lots of photos…

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As we came back into Lynton we had our first glimpse of the funicular train (more on that later) and then headed to the car to pick up our picnic lunch. It was hard to believe it was only 12pm and yet we’d seen so much already.

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We were initially only going to take the Lynton and Lynmouth Cliff Railway one way, back up from Lynmouth at the end of the day, but it was only £3.80 each for a return journey so we decided to go crazy. We queued up in the cute, bunting filled ‘station’ and waited for our train. The cliff railway is the highest and steepest fully water powered railway in the World – super cool! It was opened in 1890 as a means for transporting goods between Lynton and Lynmouth, but now is solely used for tourism. In it’s busiest year it transported 470,000 people between the two towns. We didn’t have to wait long at the top and were on the next train down in no time. As a side point, we couldn’t quite believe how quiet the whole area was whilst we were here. Being a sunny Saturday in August, we had been worried that it was going to be super busy, but it was completely manageable the whole day. We didn’t get a great spot on the train on the way down, but knew we could always try again on the way back up.

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Once in Lynmouth we had to deal with Simon’s hangriness. He was getting a little intolerable. However a few sandwiches, a packet of crisps and some fruit later and I had my happy go lucky Simon back. Our view wasn’t half bad whilst we ate and fortunately this was when the worst (not really bad at all) weather was and the rest of the day it was beautiful.

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Our next stop was another long walk to Watersmeet. The town of Lynmouth is very picturesque and we found ourselves stopping often to take pictures of the river and the surroundings before we started. It’s super easy to get to Watersmeet as all you have to do is follow the East Lyn river and just keep going.

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Soon the river entered forested areas and, as you can see, provided absolutely beautiful scenery. We enjoyed exploring the many bridges, rivers and caves that we found along the path.

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After about 2 miles we ended up at Watersmeet Tea House. As the name suggests Watersmeet is the place where two waters meet. At this point the East Lyn river and the Hoar Oak water join and provided a secluded and fairytale setting for a cream tea.

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There are a couple of waterfalls around the area which we explored and then we settled down to the largest pot of tea in the history of tea and some very scrummy scones. We had definitely deserved this after all the walking.

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The walk back was equally as lovely. We took our time a little more, took lots of photos and stumbled across the largest heron we had ever seen. He even stopped and posed for a while.

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IMG_6845 copyBack in Lynmouth, we pottered around the shops for a while, but soon decided to take the train back up to Lynton, where we had parked the car (shopping has never been a strength of mine). There was quite a queue this time with us having to wait about 30 minutes, but there were lots of signs about the history of the train and some details about how the train came in very useful during a flood in the 1950s that we could read while we waited. Fortunately, we were able to get a spot in the front of the train on the way back up and got some beautiful views over Lynmouth Bay.

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The whole day had been amazing and we were so glad we did it. All day we heard foreign languages and accents and knew that we had found a great little spot that people spent good money to come and see. As I’ve mentioned before in one of my blog posts, tourists to our country often see the best of what it has to offer and we don’t. I’ve spent around 10 years living in the South West (28 if you count Swindon as being in the South West, but there’s a big question mark over that one) and I’d never been to this area in my adult life. My Mum was telling me about how I’d been here as a child on a family holiday, but why had I not been more recently as an adult? If there’s one thing I’d love for you to take away from this blog post, it’s to explore! You never know what you’ll find in your home county. For us this journey cost £25 and the cost of petrol. For that price we made some amazing memories, got some amazing photos and spent the day feeling like we were on holiday. Bargain!

 

Coastal explorer in Falmouth

Back in July 2016 I was given 2 very amazing presents when I left my teaching job. One was a years adoption of a giraffe at a local zoo and the other was a trip around Falmouth on a rib wildlife spotting. Both were absolutely perfect. It’s like they knew me very well or something 🙂

Yesterday was the first day of July 2017 and 13 days before the trip expired we finally managed to go on the trip. We had previously tried to go on the trip at the beginning of June but it was cancelled due to poor weather, but wow we were blessed this day with gorgeous sunshine and some amazing wildlife.

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The trip was lead by a company called Orca Sea Safaris. They were really helpful during booking and great on the day too. What this trip did do is make us realise, again, how little people explore the places where they live. I knew this already, but since traveling we’ve made more of an effort and more plans to travel around our own city, county, country and continent. I didn’t know any of the history that we were told whilst on the boat. I didn’t know that Pendennis castle has a twin in St. Mawes castle, that they are exactly 1 mile apart, built during the rein of Henry the 8th and designed to protect the 3rd deepest natural harbour in the World from attach by the French and Spanish.

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As we zoomed past St. Mawes we ended up at a really interesting looking lighthouse. Turns out this lighthouse was used in the credits for Fraggle Rock.

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On our 2 hour boat trip we saw cormorants, gannets and a peregrine falcon, as well as a HUGE pod of common dolphins. We were headed off shore and a very friendly fisherman boat signalled for us to come over. They gave us information about the pod of dolphins and we headed off to see if we could find them. They were working together to catch fish and we were told we’d find the pod below the gannets dive bombing into the water from above, taking full advantage of the hunting skills of the dolphins.

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The next hour was amazing. Simon and I have both have been fortunate enough to have quite a few dolphin experiences in the past, with Simon even diving with dolphins in Ascension, but neither of us had ever seen such a large pod before, or spent that long watching them.

Here are some pictures of our dolphin experiences while travelling…

Hector’s dolphin in Akaroa, New Zealand

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Bottlenose dolphins – Bay of Islands, New Zealand

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We also saw a pink bottlenose dolphin in Koh Tao, Thailand, but didn’t get a photo of that one.

On our trip now, the dolphins past by us multiple times with our boat keeping a respectful distance away at all times. The skipper thought there were up to 30 common dolphins in the water, which was just unbelievable.

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How we’re going to carry on travelling

So, it’s been a while since I’ve written a blog. A lot has happened. We’ve moved, I’ve started a new job and I’ll let Simon announce his news another time. We love living back in Plymouth and I’m really enjoying my new job so all is great. The only missing piece of the puzzle is how are we going to carry on ‘travelling’ with only a few weeks of annual leave every year. So, here’s our plan…

Once a month we are going to ‘travel’ to somewhere in the South West of England that we have never been before or somewhere we haven’t been for a considerable amount of time. We have set some rules for ourselves.

  1. Our day trip has to be in Somerset, Devon or Cornwall.
  2. Ideally, we will travel no more than 90 minutes to get there.
  3. We have to have never been there before or it has to have been a very long time (10ish years) since either of us have been there.
  4. We have to act like tourists. I don’t mean baseball camps, bumbags and human body sized maps. I mean, we have to look at the place as if we were a tourist taking lots of pictures and researching as much as we would have anywhere else in the World.
  5. In the next 365 days we have to visit at least 12 places.
  6. I will write a blog of our day afterwards (not a rule, but a pleasure).

We are completely up for suggestions and, of course, company. Let us know if you want to join us! 

There will definitely be other travelling adventures on the cards within the UK and also aboard. I can announce that already next year we have booked to visit 8 countries in total. Yes!!! Gotta love a cruise and the many opportunities it brings.

Life is great and I don’t feel as though we have to sacrifice the parts of travel we love now we are adulting again. We will still get to see new places, meet new people and experience new cultures and activities.

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(Yes! This is how cold I was when we returned to the UK)

Lincoln

After many busy and eventful days visiting family in Swindon and Rotherham, we had a welcomed day exploring the cathedral city of Lincoln with Julie, Charlie and Jack (Mother in-law and two brothers in-law). Julie had celebrated her birthday just before we returned and we wanted to spend a day all together as a family to celebrate. Unfortunately, it’s quite rare that we ever get any time when we’re up North to see new places, we’re too busy enjoying the company, but fortunately, the last couple of times we have been able to see a bit more of the surrounding area. We all pilled into my car and after a easy and smooth hour filled with music courtesy of DJ Jack, we arrived in Lincoln.

Lincoln is the county town of Lincolnshire and is absolutely rich in history. We parked up in the downhill area, walking along the river Witham into the main shopping area. Bars and restaurants line the river and with the sun shining it was a beautiful place to be. This area had a similar feel to Gloucester, which is a place we love spending time.

After walking through the town we started our journey up Steep Hill. As the name suggests, Steep Hill is very steep, at the steepest gradient, 14%. The street was recently named Britain’s Great Street in 2012 by the Academy of Urbanism, but historically was used by the Roman residents of Lincoln to expand the settlement down the hill. We started walking up the hill, quite successfully I might add, and decided to celebrate our ability to walk up such a steep hill with a stop in a quaint tea room, Bunty’s Tea Room. Here we all enjoyed some teas and coffees. I felt like we could have been in any tea room in Devon or Cornwall with the quaint and pretty tea cups and decorations. A really lovely place.

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After 30 more seconds of walking, we made it to the top of Steep Hill. Julie got used as a photographer at this point by some tourists and the rest of us enjoyed some jazz music and had some photos taken at the famous gold postbox in Castle Square. For my readers around the world, after the 2012 Olympics and Paralympics, any athletes that won gold were honoured by having a gold postbox put in their home town. This one was for Sophie Wells who won gold as part of the Paralympic Equestrian Team.

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As we approached our next stop, Lincoln Castle, you couldn’t help put feel an overwhelming sense of history. Lincoln Castle was constructed during the late 11th century by William the Conqueror on the site of a pre-existing Roman fortress. Google has informed me that the castle is unusual as it has two mottes, which only two castles in country can claim. Once in the castle, we walked around the medieval wall walk, which gave us amazing views of the cathedral, surrounding countryside and Lincoln in general.

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After the medieval wall walk, we walked around the grounds and the Dowell boys, being the Dowell boys, decided they’d like to have a go at archery (I don’t think the Dowell girls were disappointed to be honest). We all had a go with a crossbow and also a longbow and we all agreed that the crossbow was easier, but the longbow more fun. We were all really good and had a lot of fun doing it.

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Next we found a lot of medieval weaponry and decided to pose for some photos. Obviously!

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The next stop was to see the Magna Carta. The Magna Carta is something I had heard about through school, but I entered the museum unable to remember much about it. We watched a video to start with which explained that the Magna Carta, meaning ‘The Great Charter’ is one of the most famous documents in the world. In a nutshell, the Magna Carta established that all people, including the King, were subject to the law. In 1215 it was a peace treaty between King John and the rebel barons, but has since acted as the foundation for modern rights. One of the main clauses that we all are aware of today is that all ‘free men’ have the right to justice and a fair trial. Lincoln Castle is the only place in the world where an original 1215 Magna Carta and 1217 Charter of the Forest can be seen side by side. The Magna Carta is listed on the UNESCO’s  Memory of the World Register, which recognises its importance to world heritage. Unfortunately, you are able to take photos in there, so all of you will just have to go and see it yourself.

Our last stop in Lincoln Castle was to see the prison.  Men, women and children were held here from 1848 to 1878 for crimes ranging from stealing to murder. During this time there were seven hangings of murderers at the castle. We walked around the prison and saw the standard cells as well as the dark cell where you would be placed in isolation for up to 72 hours. We trapped the boys in little church cells, which was fun! There were lots of stories around the prison of escapees as well, which I enjoyed reading.

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Our next stop was lunch and that was very welcomed as we were starving! We walked back down to the river and had a lovely relaxed lunch at ASK! Italian. Pasta, pizza and some very tasty desserts, who could want anything more?

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Full of food and pretty content Jack took us for a little explore around his ex University Campus. It was great to see where he’d studied for those 3 years and I can definitely see the appeal of the small and compact campus. Then we walked back up Steep Hill to spend some time walking around Lincoln Cathedral. The cathedral was commissioned by William the Conqueror and completed in 1092. The cathedral has been rebuilt many times due to fires and earthquakes and when the central spire was raised in 1311, Lincoln Cathedral was declared the tallest building in the world. IN THE WORLD! What an amazing fact! It stole number one place from the Great Pyramid of Giza and hold onto this claim to fame until 1549 when the spire collapsed. We walked around, enjoyed the Gothic architecture and took in the atmosphere that comes from being in a cathedral. Jack told us about his graduation which took place in the cathedral and then afterwards in Lincoln Castle. I can’t think of a more grand and impressive venue for a graduation ceremony.

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Before leaving Lincoln we walked around the outside of the cathedral and came across the Tennyson Memorial Statue. At the time I had no idea who this person was, but upon doing some research it’s clear that Tennyson was a poet and the dog in the statue was his trusty four legged companion, Karenina.

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We’d had a lovely day exploring Lincoln and it’s definitely a city I would happily return to in the future. Thank you Julie, Charlie, Jack and Simon for a great day!

The last stop… Singapore

We arrived in Singapore from Melaka at about 10pm. Our bus was very fancy, for the grand total of £3 each. We each had individual TVs, a guide who would assist us with all things immigration and the largest seats I’ve ever seen. Everything went very smoothly until we made it to the border. The queues of buses getting into immigration were endless and the queues in immigration were nearly as long. However, we made it into Singapore safe and sound, if not a little later than we’d expected.

Our first experience of Singapore was a confirmation about how expensive it was, a 10 minute taxi ride cost us around £12. Oh my! We checked into our hotel, received a free upgrade (megamoon woo!) and settled in for a busy day the next day.

Uber was our best friend in Singapore, as it often is in the larger cities, and our first ride took us to the famous Botanic Gardens. I have to say, much to Simon’s disappointment, we have visited a lot of botanical gardens on our travels. Some have been brilliant and some not so much. Does anyone remember the blog about Hervey Bay? That was a terrible botanical garden. This one, was unbelievable and such a pleasure to walk around. At 82 hectares, the park is massive and it’s clear to see why it has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. We walked around for about 2 hours, which included an additional, paid, visit into the National Orchid Garden. The whole place was just beautiful, despite us dripping from the humidity. Some of the orchids have been bred specifically with celebrities and important World leaders in mind, I’ll put some examples below.

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After the Botanic Gardens, we walked to Hard Rock cafe. Being our last Hard Rock, we splurged and had a drink there.

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Our next stop was onto Orchard Road to see what Singapore had to offer in terms of malls. Firstly, we visited Scape where we ate at a restaurant (Aston specialities) that had been recommended online. Singapore doesn’t have massively cheap eating, but here we managed to have steak and a burger for the price of a typical Wetherspoons meal. A bonus was that it was super tasty.

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We walked back along Orchard Road, taking in all of the fancy shops. I saw 3 Tiffany’s and Co within about 1km! How can they all stay in business? Singapore is very clean and organised and this road showcased that perfectly. Some people told us they felt like Singapore didn’t have much character, but I think the cleanliness and orderliness of Singapore was part of its interesting character. Our next stop was to ion Orchard, one of the more famous malls. On the lower floors you can find your typical H&M style stores and as you go higher, the more expensive stores start to show their face. Harry Winstons, Dior, Dolce and Gabbana and Louis Vuitton to name a few. We headed up as we were going to access ion sky, which is a free 360 degree view at 56 floors of Singapore. The views were stunning and really gave you an idea of how far Singapore spreads out.

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Our next stop was for a rest back at the hotel. We had already walked huge distances, but we still had a lot more to explore. Our hotel was fortunately next to Raffles Hotel. Raffles first opened its doors in 1887 and beautifully shows off the architecture of the East, but also showcases the colonial architecture. Liveried Sikh doormen welcome guests into Raffles and the one on the day we visited was happy to have a selfie with us, whilst probably thinking, ‘Bloody tourists!’ Raffles is home to the famous Singapore Sling cocktail, previously called a Gin Sling. The recipe in Raffles is considerably different to most Singapore Slings you find elsewhere around the World. It was really tasty, the atmosphere in the Billiards Room (the Long Bar is closed for a while due to renovations) was amazing and you get endless free peanuts that you can just throw on the floor, but the cocktail was NOT worth the price we paid for it. $31 Singapore! Wow!!! Off the top of my head, I would say that’s around £26. Eek! Fortunately, my parents had given us a little bit of Singapore money before we left (yes, we had carried it for 8 months) as a Birthday present, so we used that towards our Raffles experience.

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We jumped on the Singapore MRT and headed towards Marina Bay. We walked around the shoppes at Marina Bay and saw the famous canal that runs through the middle. For a moment, it felt like we were in Venice… haha. It so didn’t, but it was pretty interesting to watch for a while. We ate some food in the Hawkers centre and then it was time to go and see one of the things I had been looking forward to since arriving in Singapore, The Garden Rhapsody Light Show in Gardens by the Bay.

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The music that the light show plays to changes often and whilst we were there it was to classical waltz music. We picked a seat so we were surrounded by the beautiful supergrove trees and waited. The light show plays at 7.30pm and 8.30pm every night and at the 7.30pm showing it was very busy. The show was magical. I shed a tear pretty early on, but classical music often has that affect on me anyway. Whilst watching I couldn’t help but feel a sense of closure about our trip. It was a sad feeling, but also meant that we would be seeing our family and friends soon. Yes, the light show is touristy, but it stands up as one of my favourite experiences on our trip. I honestly can’t tell you why, it’s just a load of large fake trees, covered in lights, dancing to the music, but i loved it!

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Feeling pretty warm and fuzzy inside from an excellent first day in Singapore, we walked back to the MRT to go back to the hotel. The next day, was Universal Studios Day!!

After a nightmare sorting the tickets out online, we made it to Universal using our trusty friend Uber. About the ticket situation, I would just go with the Universal official website and accept you may pay a couple of quid more. We tried an agency, that had been recommended, but they decided to do some random checks on our order (they do this for every certain percentage) and by the morning we still hadn’t received our tickets. Fortunately we got a refund and managed to get some tickets through Universal itself. We collected our tickets and were 4th in line at the gate. We had decided to not get any fast passes and just get there early running around like crazy people for the first hour or two hitting the main attractions.

I’m not going to bore you all with the details of Universal Studios. It isn’t Florida, it’s only a small proportion of the size, but it was great fun! We didn’t need fast passes and hit the main 5 rides within the first hour and a half multiple times. We loved the Transformers 4D ride, the Mummy (which is the same as Florida), had a lot of fun on Jurassic Park and got thrown around on the Battlestar Galactica dual rollercoaster. Some other highlights included the water stunt show and the lights camera action show! We ran around like crazy people and had a lot of photos taken with characters, because we’re children really! I would definitely recommend it, especially if you’re up for some of the kiddy rides. We had a bit of fun on the Madagascar one and loved Shrek 4D! Be prepared to be done by about 3.30pm if you’ve gotten in when the gates open. It’s not that big!

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Our last evening in Singapore was spent down by the Esplanade, the Merlion Park, Marine Bay and we ended up at the light show again (who knows when I’ll get to see it again). We started at the Hawkers Centre called Makansutra Gluttons Bay. This food was AMAZING!! We shared duck rice, a mix of different meat satays and some spicy chicken noodles. The food was really reasonably priced and the views of the bay were just to die for.

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After this we walked around the waterfront promenade and visited the Merlion Park. While we were walking over there I had this realisation that the Merlion was half fish, half lion, hence the name. I don’t know why my brain hadn’t processed this beforehand, but Simon found it funny. The Merlion is Singapore’s national icon, with the fish tail representing Singapore’s origins as a fishing town and the lion representing Singapore’s original name Singapura, lion city. We took some silly photos and took in the views.

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From here we walked back along the promenade and listen to some sound checks for a show that was happening in the theatre on the bay over the weekend. At this point, I realised we weren’t that far away from Gardens by the Bay and we decided to walk around and watch the 8.30pm light show again. On our walk, we walked through a sports centre right on the water and across the Helix bridge. Both spots gave us some pretty impressive views of the Singapore skyline. We went to bed that night so grateful for such an great 2nd day in Singapore and feeling a little odd that we were flying home the next day.

We slept in and stayed in our room right up to check out to try and readjust to UK time a little. Our flight wasn’t until 10pm and the hotel were letting us keep our bags there so we could explore. We had decided to spend our last day visiting the other attractions in Gardens by the Bay, the Flower Dome and the Cloud Forest. On our way to Marina Bay, a MRT worker came and spoke to us about our plans. She told us about a little store where we could buy our tickets and get some money off. This is how friendly people are in Singapore, they’re always trying really hard to make you feel welcome. We bought our tickets from there and made our way over.

We started in the Flower dome, which appealed to me because a) it’s like the Eden project and b) it had a Dutch tulip display at that time. If you know me, you know I love tulips and I also loved my time in Holland cycling through the tulip fields, so this was perfect. Here are some photos from our time there.

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Next, we popped over to the Cloud Forest, which has the largest inside waterfall in the World. Simon and I were the only people to get up close and personal with the waterfall. Other people can be right wimps sometimes. Our visit timed perfectly with a cloud misting, which is where they pump in water vapour to mimic the clouds that form around mountains. It was great to see and we loved walking around.

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The rest of the day was a strange mix of waiting and exploring. We walked around some more and just ‘took in’ the atmosphere of Singapore. I was so sad to be leaving, but felt like we’d had the perfect amount of time for a first visit. We went back and collected our bags before heading to the airport with our trusty friend, Uber. Our driver was exactly what we needed. He spoke to us the entire time, told us more about the city and wanted to hear all about our adventure. His kindness and interest made that last 45 minute drive not as unbearable as it could have been. Stepping out of the car, we felt our last blast of warm air and before we could stop ourselves walked into the airport. The next outdoor air we felt was 4 degrees… Joyful! How is it possible to have felt more nervous going home than we ever felt leaving to travel?

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Last Megamoon photo.

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With that, our Megamoon was officially over. We made it home safe and sound to the love and warm welcome of all our friends and family. In many ways, it felt like we’d never been away. Australia seems like it was a lifetime ago. New Zealand still holds a large part of both our hearts. South-East Asia, in general, was far kinder to us than we ever expected. I can’t even begin to summarise what we’ve seen and done, but we intend to make a video of our highlights, a photo album from each country and I want to write a blog of our highlights.

Home!!

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Is this the end of my blog site? No! Of course not! It’s all about Simon and Becky’s travels and do you know what? There’s a lot more of that still to come!

 

Being home (real talk)

Firstly, I would like to apologise for the delay in getting my Singapore blog written. Our laptops are constantly being used for job applications, emails and research so I haven’t had enough time to get it fully finished yet. I know a lot of you are actually waiting to read it due to some trips you are planning, so I promise, it will be up by the weekend.

Being home has been great and awful all rolled in to one. I’ll try and summarise what we’ve been up to:

  1. Arrived back to the UK after a 14 hour flight.
  2. Struggled with jetlag for about 4 days.
  3. Spent some lovely time with my parents in Swindon.
  4. Travelled to Yorkshire and had a lovely, but unbelievably manic week seeing everyone up there.
  5. Travelled back to Cornwall (wow, I forgot what a journey that was) and started immediately working on the house.
  6. Parents came to Cornwall and helped to decorate 5 rooms in less than 3 days. Thank you Mum and Dad.
  7. Over the next few days completed a total of 12 runs back and forth to the storage container to collect all our stuff. Washing machines are VERY heavy.
  8. Sorted out a lot of the stuff, including rebuilding furniture, a few charity shop runs and boxing up bits for the loft (we’re not fully unpacking incase we need to move again).
  9. Worried about money and jobs.
  10. At around 2 weeks, I had a breakdown… more on this later.
  11. Started thinking about jobs (we’re at about 2.5 weeks home now).
  12. We now spend our days job hunting, applying, CV writing and practising interview techniques.
  13. Spent some time with friends, which has been such a welcomed relief.

This brings us pretty much up to where we are today. We have been home now for very nearly 4 weeks. Today, I have a telephone interview for a job I am unbelievably excited about, I’m also going to finish the application process for supply teaching today. Hopefully, that means I will only have to wait for my DBS check to come through before the work starts coming in.

As I’ve said to most of you, teaching full time is not something I’m interested in at the moment. Travelling has opened my eyes to the way I was during those few years and I know that there is a career out there that will make me happy. For the time being, supply will bring in some money from a job that I am good at (I can finally appreciate that now, as at times last year, it was hard to believe I was good at a job that made me so anxious and upset).

So, what has been hard to get used to since being home?

  1. The weather. I’m 99% sure I suffer from this seasonal depression disorder. The problem is, it’s not just in the Winter that the weather is poor here, it’s all the time. I haven’t seen the sun or any blue sky since Saturday now (it’s Wednesday). How depressing is that? I love walking, I love being active, but the weather just makes me want to cocoon away and carry on with work on my laptop. What I’d give for a bit of sun right about now.
  2. Not feeling at home anywhere. These are all pretty deep, so I apologise. I grew up in Swindon and I love visiting my parents, but Swindon isn’t home. The welcome in Yorkshire is amazing and the people are the best, but it isn’t home. Cornwall, isn’t home even though it’s beautiful and an amazing place to live. So, where is? Travelling for so long meant that there was something new and exciting everyday. Something new to see and do. Here, we’re not seeing a lot of new and exciting things. I know that everyone has to settle and get on with life, but the place we move to, I want to feel like home. There is a plan in place for this, if jobs work out.
  3. Being surrounded by stuff. Simon and I have a very average amount of ‘stuff’ in my opinion, but it’s too much. That breakdown I was talking about happened after another run to the storage container meant that I could hardly walk through the hallway. I sat down on the bed for a good 30 minutes and had an epic cry, which did help. Gotta love my unbelievable supportive husband. I hate looking everywhere and seeing ‘stuff’. We’ve spent a huge amount of time sorting through bits and bobs ultimately binning a lot, giving some to charity, we’ve sold some stuff and a lot of it has gone up to the loft to be considered in a few months. I can’t be anymore grateful to Simon for boarding our loft up before we left. I’m not sure what I’d do if I had to have everything around us like before. Living in a 55l backpack for 8 months has truly changed my opinion on materialistic items. I was never materialistic in the first place, but we had accumulated a lot and I will not let that happen again. Please please please do not buy us anything for a good few years. Amazon vouchers would be great 🙂
  4. Accepting that nothing has changed. You never fully believe it when you are told this on the road, but you get home and nothing has changed. Everyone else is still going about their business, still loving life. I am so happy to come home to a very happy bunch of friends and family, but it’s very hard for me to see how nothing big could have happened in the time we were away. So many amazing things have happened to us. Obviously, some things have changed. A couple of engagements and a new baby in the family are some examples of some great celebrations we got to come home to.
  5. Anxiety. I never was an anxious person. I can blame a certain career for creating a deep and underlying anxiety in myself. I have to say, I am more anxious on a daily basis right now, than I was at any point during the 8 months travel. Every time I speak to someone after a few days I get ‘How’s the job search?’ ‘Are you going to move?’ ‘Have you had any interviews?’ ‘Have you sorted X/Y/Z?’ and I’m feeling that butterfly feeling again. I don’t like it and I know I need to batter it away with a stick, because we are OK for a few more months without work and we are going to be fine. Breathe in and out!!
  6. Negative news. Wow! Has anyone ever stopped to appreciate how negative our media is? I have to say, this isn’t something we noticed in Australia and New Zealand. The positive vibes you get out there are 1000 x better than here. Every time I turn on the TV I see news about politics, death, prisons, crime, weather etc. Everything is just so negative!! No wonder I feel so low.

I have to say, despite the bad bits about coming home we have loved seeing family and friends. I love being in my own home surrounded by (a very small amount) of my own things and I love the familiarity of the country.

All i hope for at the moment is that we both find some jobs that challenge us in all the right ways, we can move somewhere that feels like home and we can start planning for our next holiday. Not too much to ask for, I don’t think.

Melaka or Melacca (up to you)

We arrived at TBS, the main bus station in Kuala Lumpur, a little earlier than we wanted to. It’s very lucky that we did as the queue to collect our tickets took 45 minutes. Wow! Things really are done slowly in Malaysia. We booked our bus to Melaka quite a while back and for £3 each we would be in a VIP bus for 2.5 hours. The bus station at KL was like nothing I had ever seen before. It was like an airport, with security checks and gates. After a quick cup of coffee, we were only 10 minutes early to the gate, despite getting to the airport an hour earlier than we had planned. Really really lucky. The bus was all we had hoped it would be. Our seats were like living room reclining chairs. The only problem was how cold the air con was and after about 2 hours, I was freezing.

We made it to Melaka in time to go to the Sunday night market on Jonker Street. Everything you could imagine was on sale here, from food to gadgets, clothes and souvenirs. Some of the weirder items we saw included, but are not limited to, a samurai sword umbrella, matchstick guns and deep fried fish heads. It was lovely to just walk along the market and eventually we stopped at a restaurant called the Geographer for dinner. I had a sour plum juice and Jonker street chicken satay, which were both delicious. Simon had a sweet curry and also really enjoyed that. We walked down to the river and stumbled across the Hard Rock cafe, so bought the glass, obviously, before heading back to the hotel.

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A photo of the Geographer taken in the light of day. IMG_5073 copy

The next day was very full on. We only had the one full day in Melaka so really wanted to make the most of it. We started by having breakfast at this lovely little cafe called The Daily Fix. The food they served was delicious and a real fusion of Asian and Western flavours. After this we walked down to the Dutch quarter and saw the very typical red coloured buildings that Melaka is known for.

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We went into Christ church, which was a very typical church on the inside.

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Next we found some cannons at the Melaka fort. We obviously made the most of this.

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We spent the next 90 minutes or so walking around the Flora de la mer, the Maritime museum and the Malaysian Navy museum. We learnt a lot about the history of Melaka and how this town used to be a huge hub for trade around the World. Melaka was colonised 5 times in history by the Portuguese, Dutch, British, Japanese and British again. Unfortunately, every time that Melaka was colonised, part of its trade was destroyed and eventually the town lost the glory that it once had.

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We’d been told to try a Hokkaido cheese tart whilst in Melaka. It was yummy, but very strange. It was like cream cheese in the middle and the pastry was sweet.

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We enjoyed a white coffee (Malaysian coffee) after this and escaped the heat for a while. Mine was iced and came with cendol, which meant it had red beans, gelatinous rice and grass jelly. The coffee was great, the cendol, not so much.

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We needed a bit of a rest for a few hours and also we needed to do some research for our time in Singapore so we headed back to the hotel for a bit. After our rest we went for a walk down to and along the river and enjoyed the beautiful buildings, flowers and street art.

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We walked down to the sea to see the Straits of Melaka, but there wasn’t a lot there.

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We stopped for dinner next in Little India, where we enjoyed banana leaf curry. This is a very typical dish served in Southern Indian. It was unbelievably tasty and super cheap. We weren’t brave enough to eat with our hands though.

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Some more street art that we enjoyed on our way to a reggae bar for a beer. Yes, they had dinosaurs.

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We had a couple of hours the next day to explore some more of Melaka. After returning to the Daily Fix for another scrummy breakfast, we walked up Bukit St Paul to the old church, which gave some good views back over the town. Unfortunately, the weather had changed and we were getting a bit wet.

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We saw some more ruins, A. formosa I believe.

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Simon found a dinosaur.

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And to finish our time in Melaka, we enjoyed a drink in a pub by the river.

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Melaka had been really lovely. For me, it joined Chiang Mai, Luang Prabang and Hoi An in my top places in S.E Asia. Any places that are listed UNESCO World Heritage seem to become an instant favourite with me.

Kuala Lumpur

Having said goodbye to Team Thailand. We spent one very uneventful night in a town called Surat Thani. As it was Songkran, everywhere was quite, the water fight excitement from earlier had died down and people were in their homes celebrating with their families. We really struggled to find food, but luckily we found a restaurant after a while.

The next morning we caught a flight to Kuala Lumpur. Our initial plans had involved travelling by land down through Southern Thailand into Malaysia or down through the islands into Malaysia. Unfortunately, due to the timing of the Easter holidays and our guests visiting we didn’t have the time left that we needed to do this. Luckily though we still had a week and we were going to use it well by flying to Kuala Lumpur for 2 nights and then to Melaka for 2 nights and then to Singapore for 3, where we would catch our flight home.

The flight was uneventful only taking an hour and 20 minutes. What was eventful was immigration at Kuala Lumpur airport. It was chaos. We queued for about 80 minutes to get through immigration after a lot of necessary pushing to ensure we weren’t overtaken by other people. It wasn’t a clear line and it definitely wasn’t efficient. Having not eaten since breakfast, and it now being 5pm, we needed food. I’m ashamed to admit that the first meal we had in Malaysia was a KFC, but needs must. We were starving. I have to say, their KFC is better than ours.  Rather than chips, you get potato wedges covered in a very very tasty cheese sauce. Yum! We then spent another 30 minutes struggling to order an uber, but eventually got on our way. Only then did we realise that actually we were about 50 minutes from the city and then we experienced about 40 minutes of delays due to congestion. Let’s just say, it wasn’t the smoothest start to our time here. I was starting to think that maybe we should have spent our last week in Thailand and that we’d made a bit of a mistake, but it was all worth it in the end.

Our accommodation was great, but we hardly saw it. We quickly moved out of the hotel and started exploring. We were staying in an area called Bukit Bintang, which was close to everything we wanted to see. We started off by walking to the Pavillion mall where Simon enjoyed the superhero shop and I enjoyed the Japan section with its cherry blossom display.

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We used the walkway that connects the Pavillion mall to KLCC conference centre to walk over to Suria mall and had another look around there. Here we got to see some F1 cars and just take in the sheer size of the malls here in KL. It was then that we got our first view of the Petronas twin towers. This spectacular building held the record for the tallest building in the world between 1998 and 2004 and they are still the tallest twin towers in the world. The really are an impressive site.

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We moved around to KLCC park to watch the light symphony at the water fountain,  which also gave us some more amazing views of the towers. The light show was nothing too special, but the photos we got were definitely worth it.

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We got up early the next day as we were taking part in a free walking tour. It had been a while since we’d been on a free walking tour, but if you are an avid reader of the blogs, you will remember a lot of them in Australia and New Zealand. This one was a heritage walk run by the KL government and was really interesting. Our first stop of the tour was to the city gallery where we learnt about the history of Kuala Lumpur, right from when it was a cowboy town, settled by the Chinese to make the most of the tin ore found here through to the current day developments. During the British settlement one of the residents moved the capital of Malaysia to KL to be closer to the tin and all the money. The heritage buildings that we looked at on the tour were the buildings built by the British during the colonisation. This ended in 1957.

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Our second stop was to Independence Square which was where the British flag was lowered in 1957 and the Malaysian flag was raised for the first time. The green patch in front was used as a cricket field by the British, but cricket never really took off so it eventually got used for playing football, which did take off. Surprise surprise. 

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We walked around the textiles museum, which was originally the building of the Federated Malay States Railway, and got to see some traditional outfits worn by many of the ethnic groups that live in the area. Also during our time here, our guide told us about the architecture of the buildings, which were a mix of Islamic, Asian and Western details. The buildings were definitely not like anything I had ever seen before.

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Next we were shown why Kuala Lumpur has its name. In Malay Kuala means ‘where two rivers meet’ and Lumpur means mud or muddy. So Kuala lumpur literally means a muddy place where two rivers meet. The river here divided the Chinese and British colonies and the two styles of architecture can be clearly seen on either side of the river.

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We walked around some more buildings including: the theatre, the Royal Selangor club (where woman are still not allowed in one of the bars) and St Mary’s Cathedral. The whole walking tour was really interesting and gave us a lot of insight into the history behind the country and also the capital.

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After this we went back to the city gallery to watch a 3D multimedia presentation about KL. The presentation including a massive model of the city with current and proposed buildings. The proposed buildings were made of clear plastic so it was easy to see how much the city will be changing in the next couple of decades. The presentation then displays information about the cities infrastructure, population, culture etc and highlights these on the 3D model.bit was really brilliant.

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Next was a walk to see Jamek mosque. Even though we were covered well we weren’t allowed in, but neither were other guests that were there at the same time. Maybe it was prayer time. We don’t know.

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We caught an uber over to little India in Brickfields to have a look around. On our walking tour we had been told that Brickfields was named as it was the site where bricks were made. Quite a literal name. Little India was a bit of a disappointment as we primarily wanted to have some lunch. It was nice to walk around for a bit, but there were only 2 buffet style restaurants that we could find and neither were what we were hoping for.

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Instead we walked to Sentral mall and had some traditional Malaysian food which was ok, but not my favourite. I had a curried chicken leg with rice, egg, nuts and some dried fish (wasn’t expecting this) and Simon had mutton curry with rice. I think he enjoyed his more than I enjoyed mine. We caught the  monorail back to near Hard rock to buy our glass and then took some photos of the Petronas towers in the day light. It had been a really busy day so we spent a few hours relaxing at the hotel before the evening.

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That evening we met up with Wilson. We met Wilson on the first week of our trip on our Great Barrier Reef liveaboard boat. It was lovely to be able to see him again in our last week. Very kindly, Wilson picked us up and we went for a lovely dinner at a locals spot. Our dinner was a Malaysian dish called Bak Kut Teh, or pork rib soup. It was really tasty and afterwards we enjoyed a sweetcorn and a red bean ice cream. Strangely great.

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After dinner we went for a walk around central market and saw some performers on the stage outside. This mall was any shoppers dream, full of really authentic crafts. When then walked around Chinatown, which wasn’t as authentic. I’ve never seen so many cheap and very fake designer bags, purses and clothes.

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Our last stop of the night was to the skybar at Traders Hotel. My jaw dropped when we walked in, as the bar was just amazing and the view of the Petronas twin towers was just perfect. You couldn’t have asked for a better view. We enjoyed a few drinks and enjoyed catching up with Wilson.

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The next day we headed over to Batu Caves. Batu caves is a limestone hill, with three major caves and a few minor ones. The main cave is a Hindu temple and Cathedral cave, the largest cavern, is full of smaller Hindu shrines and statues. At the base is a large Murugan statue. We climbed up to the main cave first to see the shrines and temple. On the way up, we were given a brick each by the site team. We were happy to help and carry the brick up to the top of the staircase. The inside of the cave was pretty dirty and was in desperate need of some TLC.

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We then went into the dark cave and had a 45 minute tour looking at the rock formations and learning about all of the animals that call this cave home. We saw a few tiny millipedes, a large centipede and some spiders. The cave is home to some trapdoor spiders but we didn’t see any of these. A lot of this cave is a conservation zone and has a lot of experiments running, which was interesting to hear about.

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After coming out of cave we saw a lot of monkeys running around and being generally naughty.

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We headed back to the city by train, went back to collect our bags and then we were on our way to Melaka (Mallaca). Kuala Lumpur had been an unexpected surprise. It would be really interesting to see the city in 10 – 15 years as the amount of development happening there is unbelievable. Let’s hope we get to go back one day and see for ourselves.

Koh Samui

Warning – This post is lacking in photos. We must have been having too much fun to take that many!

We made it to our last Thai island after a slight delay at the Koh Tao pier. It was absolute chaos there as everyone was moving on to Koh Phangan for the full moon party. We had decided to give the party a miss, as we hadn’t heard many good things from the dozens of people we had asked about it. They said it was fun and an experience, but not the best night of there life. We had the best night at the fire show a few nights before and had our fill of neon paint, so didn’t feel like we were missing out.

One we arrived in Koh Samui we had a minibus transfer of about 40 minutes to the area we were staying, Lamaii. Koh Samui is the third largest island in Thailand after Phuket and Koh Chang, so picking where to stay is important as you don’t want to move around too much. We had 3 rooms all next to each other at this hotel, which was really good fun. That night we walked down to a local Thai restaurant, which was delicious yet again. We all sat down on our balconies and talked about tour options for a trip we wanted to take in 2 days time to Ang Thong National Park, but it all got a bit confusing and we decided to make a decision in the morning.

The next day, Leigh and I booked the Ang Thong tour for us, Simon and Jamie. Loveday and Joe had decided to spend their last full day relaxing at the beach, so it was going to be just the four of us. The rest of the day was spent at the hotel pool, chatting, relaxing and just being on holiday. Excellent. We had a lovely breakfast at the cafe up the road and later on explored the local beach for an hour or so.

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In the evening we went to the night market, which was an experience for our guests. I think we’re a little immune to them now as they all have the same items for sale. We had street food for dinner and enjoyed some beers at an outdoor bar. The atmosphere was great and we knew why. The locals were preparing for Songkran. More on that later.

Up at 6 am the next day, Leigh, Jamie, Simon and I headed downstairs to get picked up for our Ang Thong National Park trip. There were so many different tour operators offering pretty much the same trip. The prices were different for each one, the reviews varied considerably and it was an absolute minefield picking a tour. Ultimately we decided that if we were all together we would make our on fun and we had a really lovely day. Once we made it to the pier, we joined the boat which did have around 45-50 people on board. We knew this was going to be the case so it didn’t really bother us. It took about 90 minutes to sail out to the National Park, but the sun was shining, the sea was calm and our guides were pretty funny, if not slightly eccentric. We had a very light breakfast of croissants and bananas on board, which was nice, but small.

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Our first activity of the day was kayaking. There were so many people kayaking in this small bay that it was a little worrying to start with. Simon and I learnt to stay in front of everyone, stay with the guide and then we got to see everything clearly, hear the information she was giving out and stay away from the crowds. It was a simple case of making it work for us, which we did. We kayaked through a cave, under some overhangs and even saw a little reef shark briefly in the shallows. We must have kayaked for about 40 minutes in the end and that was enough in the boiling sun.

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We got out of the kayak onto a stunning beach and hiked up to the emerald lake, also known as Talay Nai. This lake is actually marine and there is a tunnel that connects it to the ocean. Unfortunately, the tunnel isn’t big enough to dive through, but it is small enough for many fish to move back and forth. We cooled off at the top and enjoyed the view for a while.

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After the lagoon we went back onto the boat and enjoyed a very tasty lunch of Masaman curry and rice. After lunch we transferred to a longtail boat at Wua Ta Lap island. We snorkelled for a while around the reef, but the visibility was pretty terrible in places. I would say, not even 3m. Leigh was very lucky as she saw a blue spotted ray. Jamie spotted a large trevelly as well. Simon and I only saw parrotfish and other reef fish. We spent the rest of our time on the island relaxing and chatting. It was a really lovely day and a great introduction to the Ang Thong National Park.

That evening was our last on Koh Samui. We joined back up with Loveday and Joe and took a taxi over to Chaweng to have dinner at Hard Rock cafe. Being the night before Songkran, let’s just say it was getting a bit wet on the streets. Our taxi was a songkran which was completely open on the back. We all got shot with super soakers and on the way to the restaurant a few people got water chucked over them. Songkran is the Thai new year celebration and is seen as a time of change. Water is used in the festival as a sign of fertility, cleansing, prosperity and to help bring the rains in the coming wet season. Younger Thai people see it as a chance to have fun, get out their super soakers and have a load of fun. We weren’t expecting the night before Songkran started to be a danger zone though so weren’t quite ready for the soaking. We had a lovely meal at Hard Rock and was getting sad to say goodbye to everyone the next day.

Loveday and Joe left really early the next morning, Leigh and Jamie had a couple of hours to have breakfast with us before they had to head off to the airport. My hearing had completely gone in my left ear this morning, which was annoying, but we still had a nice breakfast together. Simon and I didn’t do a lot else this morning as we would get drenched if we stepped out of the hotel. We really enjoyed watching the water fight in Lamaii as we were driven to the pier for our ferry off of the island though. If we had one more night on Koh Samui, we would have gotten completely involved in the Songkran festivities, but I think the timing of us all leaving on that day meant we couldn’t really go out and get soaked.

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Koh Tao (Turtle Island)

To start with, a spoiler. We did not see a turtle whilst on turtle island. Apparently the name originates more from the shape of the island rather than an abundance of turtles. We set off very early from Ao Nang to get to Koh Tao. Our journey involved a minibus to Krabi town, then a bus to Donsak pier and then a ferry to Koh Tao, which stopped at Koh Samui, then Koh Phangan and then finally, Koh Tao. From start to finish, the journey took us about 8 hours. Not too bad really.

My first impression of Koh Tao was that it was raining firstly (luckily only a little bit) and secondly that it was far more developed than I expected. The entire pier area was full of bars, dive shops and restaurants. For those of you that don’t know, Koh Tao issues more Open Water PADI diving qualifications than any other place in the world. It’s become a bucket list tick to get your open water diving qualification here. As Koh Tao is a nursery ground for new divers, we decided Simon and I were only going to do 2 dives whilst here and Loveday and Joe were going to do 4.

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We made it to our hotel, which was very flash. For the first time in a long time, we had a pool and we didn’t hesitate to go and have a play. Simon and Joe decided to be toddlers and spent a good hour jumping in, high fiving as they jumped in, karate kicking balls and playing piggy in the middle. It was exactly what we all needed after that long journey. After a shower and a change, we walked down to the main pier area as it was time to finally meet up with Jamie and Leigh! Jamie and Leigh had been in Thailand for a few days by this point and had explored Bangkok and Kanchanaburi, where they spent some time at an elephant sanctuary. It was so great to be reunited with this guys and soon the months that we had been away vanished just like when Loveday and Joe showed up.

As a group we found some tasty Thai food for dinner and then walked along Sairee beach (the main backpacker area) to the Lotus bar. Visiting a fire show had been top of my list for a long time and we are so glad we saved it for when everyone was together. It had been Leigh’s birthday the day before so we celebrated, drank buckets of Thai whisky and peach iced tea, drank Chang, danced a lot, got painted with neon paint, limboed under fire, skipped with a fire skipping rope and just had a huge amount of fun. It’s funny really, because when Simon and I first watched videos of fire shows about a year ago, we said we would NEVER limbo or skip with fire. Funny how things change. It was completely safe though, I think.

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We made it back at about 1am after having to walk a very long way to find a taxi. We had quite a few dogs walking with us and decided to call each of them rabies. It made the walk home pretty funny! The dogs are so friendly here and I’m sure hardly any of them have rabies. I think they were walking us home, acting as escorts, to ensure we were deposited safely at the taxi rank.

The next day was a relax kind of day. Simon and I were feeling pretty fresh actually, but some people were feeling the affects from the night before. No comment there. We headed down to the South part of the island, after a very much needed fry up, and laid on the beach at Chalok Baan Kaok bay. It was our first really good weather day in a long time, so lying on a beach and taking the occasional swim was exactly what we all needed.

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My ear was playing up a bit that evening, and Loveday was having some irritation in her eyes so we decided to stay close for dinner, again local food, which was really tasty.

On our last full day we were all splitting up. Loveday and Joe headed out to do 2 dives at a site called Sail Rock, Leigh and Jamie went to do a discover scuba diver experience at some dive sites closer to the island and Simon and I had a lie in, had some breakfast, did some blog bits, did some lifemin (life admin) and not a lot else. Loveday and Joe came back at about 2pm and we all headed down to the pool to catch some rays and go for a swim. We figured we weren’t going to get much more time to just relax and not do a lot (we did do a lot of lifemin though, but not telling you about that yet) so we aren’t even ashamed to not have done a lot. The other reason we didn’t do much was because of my stupid ear. It was feeling better, but it still wasn’t right. Initially we planned to do a days snorkelling around the island, but we decided that we would probably be disappointed and that a day of rest would be better, as it would hopefully mean I could dive the next day.

We met at a pub called Safety stop (compulsory after every dive) that evening and had another lovely meal and a catch up on the days events with everyone. It was so lovely to see each other so much after so long apart and just showed us how much we had really been missing our friends and family.

The next morning our alarm went off at 4.45am. Yes I know, horrific! The reason why isn’t so horrific though. Loveday, Joe, Simon and I were going diving! 2 early morning dives and back to land by 10.30am. I had been adamant that if we dived in Koh Tao it would be to a site called Chumphon Pinnacle. I knew the likelihood of seeing a whale shark was very slim, but this place was meant to be a good site regardless of whether you see them and there had been sightings recently. I will admit it now, I was secretly hopeful. The dive company we used was called Scuba shack and we chose it because a tout had been really really helpful on our ferry to Koh Tao a few days before. Email replies had also been quick and friendly and they could go to Chumphon on that day. We are so glad we went with them. Our dive master, Max, was brilliant and very friendly. He was happy to tailor our dive to suit us and that’s exactly what he did when the BEST THING EVER happened.

On our liveaboard in the Similan islands, Ana, our guide, taught us a trick. Cross your fingers, on both hands, lick your fingers and then touch your nipples (through your wetsuit of course). This is the internationally, all species recognised sign for please show us some big fish. Last time we did it, we saw a manta ray. We taught Max this, and within 90 seconds of starting our decent we saw him… a 4-5m whale shark. He was the most beautiful fish I had ever seen under the water. The next 45 minutes of our dive (they only gave us 180 – 200 bar of air) was spent watching Maximus (this is the name we gave him). Our guide attempted to point out barracuda, there were loads, and other interesting species, but our eyes were completely for the whale shark. It still hasn’t really sunk in that we actually saw the largest species of fish on the planet. He was huge, but by no means the largest whale shark, with the largest ever recorded being 12.2m. He loved swimming through the divers bubbles and was followed by an entourage of other fish. At times we swam straight up towards us and over our heads. Honestly, the video footage we have is unbelievable. At the beginning of the dive we were the first dive group with him and by the end there were at least 50 divers in the water. Back on the surface the atmosphere was ELECTRIC! Every head that came up from a dive was screaming ‘WOW that was amazing!’ We were all buzzing for days. I’m still buzzing now from the experience.

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We had our surface interval break and got back in before it got too chaotic again. Max had asked our skipper to stay at this site for another dive rather than move on to another. See how amazing he was? This time we did actually follow the plan a bit more and saw some more of Chumphon pinnacle. As Maximus the whale shark swam passed we enjoyed him, but kept with our plan knowing we would see him again. We saw so many barracuda, including some massive great barracuda, a tiny yellow boxfish, huge shoals of fusiliers and some unbelievably massive groupers. Maximus was probably with us for about 10-15 minutes of that dive and again, he was loving the divers bubbles and came very close at times. He was loving the attention. We even joked later on that when all the divers left he probably was sad that his fan club had left.

We were back on shore by 10.30am and I couldn’t have thought of a better way to spend a morning. Just magical! I’m grinning from ear to ear just thinking about it. We went back to the dive shop, got celebratory team Scuba shack tshirts to remember the moment, filled in our log books and went back to the Safety Stop restaurant to watch our videos and compare photos. Leigh and Jamie joined up with us and we tried to not talk about what happened too much. We went for a look in some of the shops and then headed to the pier to get our ferry down to Koh Samui for the next 3 nights. Koh Tao, you have been amazing! I would definitely come back and I would definitely do more diving around Koh Tao. My initial worries about trainee divers being everywhere was partially true. There were a lot who didn’t know what they were doing, but I think if you go with the right dive shop, like we did, and pick your sites well, there is a lot to explore around Koh Tao. We will be back. 🙂